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The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ed.


Part Seventy Five Q&A 1851 - 1875

1851. We have a 2001 LE PT with 111k miles. The PT has been great, but last Thursday my wife started to town and the car got hot. She immediately turned it off. I found the problem for that, which was the temperature sensor that turns the fan on. Until then, the A/C worked great, now the A/C compressor cycles really quick and the air is hot. I checked the pressure on the low side and the pressure was way high, any ideas on what would cause this. I don't think that the temperature sensor could in any way have anything to do with this, just coincidence. Thanks in advance. – Ben, from Missouri.

Radiator fan operation is control by the PCM with inputs from the temperature of the coolant, which is sensed by the coolant temperature sensor, and vehicle speed which is measured by the vehicle speed sensor. The PCM turns on the fan through either the high or low speed fan relay.

As indicated the ECT sensor provides an input to the PCM. As temperature increases, resistance of the sensor decreases. As coolant temperature varies, the ECT sensor resistance changes resulting in a different voltage value at the PCM ECT sensor signal circuit. The ECT sensor provides input for various PCM operations. The PCM uses the input to control air/fuel mixture, timing, and radiator fan on/off times. The PCM uses ECT sensor input to send messages over the PCI bus for temperature gauge operation.

It does not appear to be directly related to your A/C issue. There is very little diagnostic info in the service manuals related to HVAC issues; your local dealer will have to assist in troubleshooting.


1852. I have a 2002 BE PT with 90.8k miles. The rear windshield wiper arm is corroded. I would like to remove and paint it. I have removed the cap and nut on the rear wiper arm, but I still don't know how to get the arm off. There appears to be a washer that is holding tightly around the bolt threads but I am not even sure that it is a washer. Thanks. – Michael, from Ohio.

The rear wiper arm is pressed on. Once you remove the cap and nut you'll need a battery terminal puller to remove the wiper arm from the wiper pivot.


1853. We have a 2001 BE PT with 80k miles. At random intervals, upon turning off the ignition, the engine continues to run, even after removing the key. No amount of key futzing will shut the engine down (it runs at a normal idle). Only way that seems to work reliably to shut it down is to pull fuse #12 in the interior fusebox. A local mechanic says it's the CD player's fault, but I'm not buying it. I think it's a coincidence of timing. I've installed literally dozens of aftermarket sound equipment options, without a hitch. Speaker wiring was verified via an ohmmeter, found an "always hot" wire, found a "hot with key" wire, and a ground wire using a Fluke 88 meter. Any ideas? – Karl, from New Hampshire.

Test the theory the next time the engine won't shut down by disconnecting the hot and ground wires for the radio however we have never encountered an instance where a radio installation caused an issue like this. In most cases issues like this have been diagnosed as a failing ignition switch and or key cylinder. A number of these have failed and been replaced on all model year PT's.


1854. I have a 2004 BE PT with 18k miles. I wanted to check my oil. When I began to pull my dip-stick out the entire tube assembly pulled out with it. The bracket that attaches to the plastic intake broke off. What do I do now? - GW, from Texas.

Working from underneath the vehicle, try relocating tube back into the hole. If you're unable to do so contact your local dealer. Replacement parts are:

TUBE, Engine Oil Indicator, P/N 22 4777 964AA

SCREW, Tapping Hex Flange Head, M6.3x1.81x20.00, P/N 6102 152AA.


1855. I have a 2002 LE PT with 110k miles. I have a leak coming from the general location of the water pump. I am assuming it is a water pump failure. Are the other components that may cause a water leak from that general location? How common are water pump failures? Having read your procedure for water pump replacement in the Pit area, it seems a daunting task. Do you consider this a DIY task? I am fairly mechanically inclined, and have a good assortment of tools. Thanks for your help. – Bert, from Florida.

Water pump failures occur but I would not characterize them as a common failure. Most OE water pumps are designed to go 100k miles or more, but they don't always go the distance.

Water pumps typically fail one of two ways: the shaft seal starts to leak, or the impeller inside breaks, comes loose, or the blades erode and wear down. The latter is more of a problem with pumps that have plastic impellers. The pump on the PT utilizes a steel impeller. Seal wear can be caused by rust, sediment or other contaminants that are circulating within the coolant. The pump shaft and bearings are under constant load from the timing belt and eventually the water pump shaft seal and or bearing wears out and the pump begins to leak. I would suggest that you have the leak diagnosed before you decide to tear into it. It's a good deal of work to pursue based upon an assumption. Your local dealer can perform a pressure test on the coolant system to precisely determine where the leak is coming from.

We always recommend replacing the water pump when servicing the timing belt since it must be removed to access the pump. At 110k miles you are overdue for replacing the timing belt therefore if the pump is verified as the source of the leak we would suggest that you address both components simultaneously to reduce labor costs. If the belt fails, and it will at some point, you will have to address this again and may have to deal with the potential damage caused to the engine when the belt breaks.

Assuming that you have reviewed the OE guide you are in the best position to assess your DIY skills to replace the pump and belt. All of the special tools are mentioned within the guide. A number of DIY'ers have replaced these components, but again it's a good deal of work.


1856. We have a 2005 BE PT Convertible with 67.8k miles. This problem has the local dealer stumped and I not ready to accept their "best guesstimate" answer. Car spits refrigerant out the pressure relief valve. I am not sure how many times this has occurred, but the one time I was driving it was after the car had been driven for enough miles to reach normal operating temp, then parked for at about 45 minutes. When it was started again, and the A/C turned immediately on, and about 2 stoplights away I heard what I now know is the valve and saw a brief puff of white smoke that smelled like Freon as we pulled away on green. At that point I turned off the A/C, and pulled over to check it out. I couldn't see anything so we ran w/o A/C for the rest of the trip. I checked for codes and none came up. I took to dealer and they couldn't duplicate the issue. They did find a faulty water pump, so they changed that (covered under powertrain warranty) so I didn't argue. Once the new pump was installed they did finally find a problem with the A/C. It was diagnosed as a faulty PCM, which was replaced under warranty. Still did not fix problem. The diagnosis is fan doesn't come on when A/C engaged, and that is why it spits out refrigerant. Final answer from dealer is we need a new fan module, not covered under warranty. They say it works correctly when water temp gets to high, but not for A/C. Unplugged fan and ran 12V directly to it. It comes on when power applied to ground and one wire, but not the other. Car overheated once on a 105 degree day in traffic jam 1.5 years ago, but has never had an overheating problem before or since that time. Dealer says they spent 5 hours chasing this problem and it "has to be the fan." I just am not convinced. Is there something else I can check to see if that fan is working correctly at all speeds? – Darren, from USA.

Fan operation can affect the behavior of A/C however the service manuals provide virtually no troubleshooting information for the HVAC system therefore we do not offer support in this area. If you're skeptical of the dealer diagnosis I would suggest that you obtain a second opinion from another dealer or shop that specializes in HVAC system work.

With regard to the radiator fan; your test is helpful but inconclusive. Fan operation is controlled through the PCM by a variety of inputs and operating conditions. As a Pit Pass subscriber you have access to the OE guide which defines the inputs and operating conditions. Once you have reviewed this information I think that you will understand that the dealer is better equipped to accurately test the fan under all normal operating parameters.

Follow up from owner - Thanks. It was the fan. Low speed fan worked but high speed didn't. New fan module solved all problems. Perhaps if the tech at the dealer had been a bit more adamant in his diagnosis I wouldn't have questioned him. Thanks for putting together this site. I have a feeling I will frequent it often now that the car is over 60K miles.


1857. I have a 2005 GT Convertible with 65.5k miles. There's water on the passenger side of the vehicle. It rains a lot in Florida and I thought that the leak was coming from the ragtop, but I don't see any drips on the inside of the car. I can only imagine the leak is coming from underneath. It's only the passenger side that does this. Someone told me that there is a seal underneath the car or underneath the carpet that may be bad and need replacement. I'm not sure where to go from here. Please help. – Bobby, from Florida.

If you discovered water on the front passenger side floorboard I would suggest checking the A/C condensation drain tube. Condensation that accumulates in the HVAC housing is drained out of the housing through a tube and on to the ground. The condensation drain tube must be kept open to prevent condensate water from collecting in the bottom of the HVAC housing. The tapered end of the drain tube is designed to keep contaminants from entering the HVAC housing. If the tube is pinched or blocked, condensate cannot drain, causing water to back up and spill into the passenger compartment. The condensate water drain tube is located on the right side of dash panel under the hood. If the tube is damaged replacements (P/N 5264 688) are available through your local dealer (verify P/N) parts department.


1858. I have a 2003 Classic PT with 65k miles. The horn goes off continuously for no reason. I've burnt up two horns and got a price to replace them for $500. I bought two after market horns, which worked ok for about 6 hours then they went off like the OE horns. I disconnected the horns and have been to the auto electricians shop. They think the problem may be in the steering wheel. Could you help please? – James, from Australia.

On the domestic PT the 2003 model comes with one low note horn. They did away with the high note horn after the 2002 model year.

Horn sounds continuously - Possible causes include:

1. Faulty horn relay. (Horn relay is in the PDC under the hood).
2. Horn control circuit to relay shorted to ground.
3. Pinched horn switch wire under driver airbag module.
4. Faulty horn switch.

There's a diagnostic in the Pit area to help test the possibilities, but if it's #3 or 4 the driver airbag module must be replaced (horn switch is part of module).

$500 for two OE replacement horns is very high. I would suggest that you call your local Chrysler dealer parts department and request a price quote or if you intend to DIY check with some local salvage yards.


1859. I have a 2003 BE PT with 55k miles. For about 3 weeks now my PT has been sputtering when it comes to a complete stop as well as in the middle of driving. It initially occurred when the A/C was on, but now it does it all of the time. I believe it may be the fuel filter, but I read that the fuel pump will go before the filter. Now the check engine light is on all of the time. Is it true that the pump will go before the filter, or I should just try and get the filter fixed? Thank you. – Teryn, from Nevada.

The fuel filter is part of the fuel pump module and is not serviceable. The modules do not fail often. If you have an engine light you have fault codes. That may have something to do with the sputtering. First thing to do is determine what the DTC is using the vehicle self tests. Then diagnose and resolve the issue with the DTC. If the sputtering is still present determine if your idle rpm drops below normal just prior to the event. If idle rpm drops below normal troubleshoot for a low idle condition. If idle rpm is normal just prior to the event check fuel pressure, which can help rule a problem with the pump and filter.


1860. I have a 2004 GT (HO) PT with 59k miles and Getrag manual transaxle. Is there any way that I can remove or disconnect the chime sound made when I shift into reverse? – Keith, from Canada.

Sorry, but we don't offer support for modifying any of the OE safety features on the vehicle. The chime safety feature is designed to help the driver distinguish between first and reverse gear, which are in close proximity to each other


1861. I have a 2004 TE PT with 38k miles. My rear hatch closed with the outside handle still pulled out. Now the hatch will not unlock or open. – David, from Georgia.

There are no safety mechanisms available to unlock the liftgate from inside the vehicle. In order to gain access to the latch mechanism the inner access door panel must be removed, however that will be difficult to accomplish with the liftgate closed. Try unlocking it using the three methods available to you. Manually, using the key, (2) remotely using the key fob transmitter, and (3) the central locking/unlocking feature. Review your owner manual if you're not familiar with these features. See your local dealer for assistance if these methods fail to unlock the liftgate.


1862. We have a 2001 LE PT with 95k miles. Our PT is taking in water from somewhere as it is pooling under the dash on the drivers side and making a puddle on the driver's side floorboard. My mechanic said that the window might be cracked, but I didn't see any seals broken. What else could it be? – Herb, from Tennessee.

If you discovered water on the front passenger side floorboard I would suggest checking the A/C condensation drain tube for stoppage.

Assuming that you have a sunroof, adequate drainage is provided by a drain trough in the sunroof housing which encircles the sliding glass panel and leads to drain hoses. If a wet headliner or other water leak complaints are encountered, ensure that the drainage system is not plugged or disconnected. The front drainage hose is routed through the A pillar and exits in the passenger side cowl area below the windshield. The rear drainage hose is routed through the back of the vehicle under the headliner and exits near the passenger side liftgate hinge.

Try having someone spray water on three separate areas while you remain in the vehicle to identify the issue.

1. Sunroof area.
2. Windshield and lower cowl area.
3. Driverside window and door seal area.

There is also a Water Leak Diag in the Pit area which may be of some help to you.


1863. I have a 2001 LE PT with 187k miles and auto transaxle. The steering column is locked. Key can go in, but I cannot unlock the column. What to do? – Richard, from Michigan.

I'm afraid there isn't enough information here to suggest a specific cause. Here are some possibilities which all work in conjunction with each other.

Steering Wheel Lock Mechanism – An anti-theft provision on all 2001, and some 2002 PT's, (eliminated in July 2002) all with automatic transaxles. With the key/lock cylinder turned to the LOCK position, and the key removed, the steering shaft (and steering wheel) cannot be turned more than 180 degrees before locking. You can try gently pulling the steering wheel to either side. While holding tension on the wheel, try to turn the key. If that doesn't help, review your owner manual for additional information about this feature. Note - All model year PT's with a manual transaxle have this anti-theft provision.

Ignition Switch - Can also cause the steering wheel to lock up. A number of owners have reported failures. We receive a number of complaints about the switches each year as we head into the cooler weather months. The inability to turn the steering wheel is likely the steering wheel lock. To release the lock the key must be inserted into the ignition switch and the engine must be running.

Shift Interlock Switch - Check each Action/Correct Response as indicated below. Any failure to meet the expected responses requires system adjustment or repair. Note – Only an issue on PT's with the auto transaxle.

1. Turn key to the OFF position.
1. Shifter CAN be shifted out of park.

2. Turn key to the ON/RUN position.
2. Shifter CANNOT be shifted out of park.

3. Turn key to the ON/RUN position and depress the brake pedal.

3. Shifter CAN be shifted out of park.

4. Leave shifter in any gear and try to return key to the LOCK or ACC position.
4. Key cannot be returned to the LOCK or ACC position.

5. Return shifter to PARK and try to remove the key.
5. Key can be removed (after returning to LOCK position).

6. With the key removed, try to shift out of PARK.
6. Shifter cannot be shifted out of PARK.


1864. We purchased a pre-owned 2004 LE PT with 37k miles. The vehicle didn't come up with an owner manual; can you explain how to check the transaxle fluid level? Thanks. – Marla, from New Jersey.

You can order or download an owner manual here.

Procedure for Checking Fluid Level

To properly check the automatic transaxle fluid level, the following procedure must be used:

1. The vehicle must be on level ground.

2. The engine should be running at curb idle speed for a minimum of 60 seconds.

3. Fully apply parking brake.

4. Place the gear selector momentarily in each gear position ending with the lever in P (PARK).

5. Remove the dipstick and determine if the fluid is hot or warm. Hot fluid is approximately 180°F (82°C) which is the normal operating temperature after the vehicle has been driven at least 24 km (15 miles). The fluid cannot be comfortable held between the finger tips. Warm is when the fluid is between 85° to 125°F (29° to 52°C).

6. Wipe the dipstick clean and reinsert until seated. Remove dipstick and note reading.

If the fluid is hot, reading should be in the cross hatched area marked “HOT” between the upper two holes in the dipstick.

If the fluid is cold, the fluid level should be between the lower two holes, into the area marked “LOW”.

If the fluid level shows low, add sufficient transmission fluid to bring to the proper level.


1865. I have a 2001 LE PT with 37k miles. The engine light popped on and I checked it with an AutoXray 6000 scanner which indicated pending code P1793. This code isn't listed in the PT trouble codes listing. No drivability issues noted. – Gary, from Michigan.

DTC P1793 - TRD Link Communication Error

When Monitored: The Transmission Control Module (TCM) pulses the 12 volt TRD signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to ground, during torque managed shifts with the throttle angle above 54 degrees. The TRD system is also tested whenever the vehicle is stopped and the engine speed is at idle.

Set Condition: This DTC is set when the Transmission Control Module (TCM) sends two subsequent torque reduction messages to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and does not receive a confirmation from the PCM.

Note - Due to the integration of the Powertrain and Transmission Control Modules, bus communication between the modules is internal.

Possible causes:


The 1700 series of DTC's are generally transaxle related. Given the DTC and indicated resolution I would suggest double checking all finding with your local dealer.


1866. I purchased a pre-owned 2002 DC PT with 39k miles about three months ago through a non-Chrysler dealer. The car only had one key transmitter and grey security key, so they provided me an IOU for the second key and transmitter to be installed at my local Chrysler dealer. I took the car in to have a second key and transmitter coded. Prior to installing key codes with both keys and transmitters the car never evidenced any problems starting. After the installation, after driving to work, the car would not start for the return trip home. All accessories worked fine, lights strong, no sound when turning the key to start position. Two codes came up, P1684 and P1685 (battery disconnected in past 50 days. I left the car at the office overnight. The next afternoon after work, on a recommendation from the dealer, I attempted to jump-start the car. The first turn of the key evidenced no sound when turning the key to start position. The second attempt started the car. I made plans to have the battery checked at the Chrysler dealer the following Monday. The car started Saturday to move into my garage for overnight charging. The next day (Sunday) the car would not start. Monday morning I jumped the car with the same result. The first turn of the key produced no sound in the starting position. The second turn of the key started the car. I drove to the dealer and the battery checked out perfectly; they could find no problem. The car ran fine until Tuesday afternoon, when my wife drove down the block to drop off our son. Upon attempting to return home, the car would not start. Friends jumped the car with the same result. The first turn of the key did not start the car, the second did. Both keys and transmitters seem to operate correctly. The dealer has never heard of this problem before and they're currently trying to duplicate and diagnose the problem. Thanks for any advice you can give me. – Dan, from Pennsylvania.

P1685 Skim Invalid Key -The engine controller has received an invalid key from the SKIM.

Possible causes:

Intermittent DTC

The DTC suggests that there's a problem with the key or they forgot to clear the code upon completion of the key programming process.

In either case, based upon your description, I don't think the keys are the problem. If the keys (transmitters) and or the RKE module were incorrectly coded the vehicle would still start with a correctly cut key, however the SKIM, which is part of the vehicle theft system, would cut the engine off within a few seconds.

As you key the ignition to the start position you should hear the solenoid for the starter click. No sound suggests no voltage, or insufficient voltage, at the starter solenoid. If the battery has a fresh charge, your connections are solid and corrosion free, and you have adequate (10v min for the starter) voltage you should hear the solenoid. If not, there may be a break or short in the circuit. When the vehicle does start, if it starts right up normally, I would begin my troubleshooting by taking a close look at the ignition switch. A number of owners over all model years have reported failures. Your local dealer can test the switch by bypassing it and jumping the starter directly. The troubleshooting process may be somewhat hampered because they can't duplicate the condition on demand therefore patience may be required by both you and the service department.

Follow up by owner - The dealer kept the car for three days last week and said they could not duplicate the problem (failure to start). I picked up the car Saturday and it has been starting fine since.


1867. I have a 2001 LE PT export (2.0L) with 100k miles. In the morning the tappets are very noisy and then in general running they are just faintly audible. This may sound a silly question, but are they self adjusting hydraulic tappets? If so, does this mean I will have to get them replaced or can I replace them myself? – Jon, from UK.

The hydraulic lash adjusters are self adjusting. Any one of the following conditions can produce a tappet-like noise:

1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.

2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required. During this time, turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.

3. Low oil pressure.

4. The oil restrictor (integral to the cylinder head gasket) in the vertical oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.

5. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.

6. Worn valve guides.

7. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.

8. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.

9. Faulty lash adjuster.

A. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.

B. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace as necessary.

To access the lash adjusters the cylinder head and rocker arm must be removed.


1868. I have a 2002 BE PT with 88.5k miles. Last week while pulling out of my driveway the PT suffered a loss of power. The shop confirmed that the timing belt was broken and I also needed a new motor mount. I got the car back yesterday and noticed that car appeared to be revving during idle. So I parked the vehicle and listened while checking the tachometer, and sure enough it was surging. Prior to this incident idle was steady and normal. I tapped the gas to see if it would reduce it, but then it only increased the revving. Is this due to the timing somehow being unaligned? Any suggestion you could provide would be great. Thank you. - Ms. Simmons, from Florida.

Idle is controlled by a variety of inputs through the PCM. Replacing the engine mount and timing belt require a good deal of work. It is possible that they missed something during reassembly.

With regard to the timing belt the possibility also exists that timing is slightly off. For example, if the timing is off a tooth or more, the engine may start but won't run well because of advanced or retarded cam timing. If the timing is off by more than two teeth the engine may not start or run.

Hopefully, they also inspected for damage to the engine while replacing the belt. The PT engine is a non-interference motor, but only to a degree. Although the pistons will not hit the valves, the valves from both camshafts can hit each other and do in many instances. Technicians should always anticipate and inspect for valve damage.


1869. I have a 2005 BE PT with 63k miles. The self tests indicate the following DTC's: P0325 & P0581. - Richard, from California.

P0325-Knock Sensor #1 Circuit - Knock sensor (#1) signal above or below minimum acceptable threshold voltage at particular engine speeds.

Possible causes include:

Good Trip Equal To Zero
Knock Sensor Circuit Shorted To Voltage
Knock Sensor Circuit Shorted To Ground
(K42) KS Signal Circuit Open
(K42) KS Signal Circuit Shorted To (K45) Ks Return Circuit
(K45) KS Return Circuit Open
Knock Sensor

P0581 - Speed Control Switch #1 High - Speed control switch input above maximum acceptable voltage.

Possible causes include:

Speed Control Switch Voltage High
Speed Control Switch
(V37) S/C Switch Signal Circuit Shorted To Battery Voltage
(K4) Sensor Ground Open


1870. I have a 2007 LE PT (LO) with 20k miles. Sometimes the engine runs very rough while sitting at a stop light, driving very slowly or pulling into a parking space. While stopped, the engine revs up and the entire car shakes for several seconds. While slowly pulling into a parking space, it will sometimes rev up and surge forwards unexpectedly, which is very dangerous! It was suggested it was for the power steering pump, but it has done it when the wheel is only slightly turned as well as when it is at its limit, and when stopped, the wheel is straight, so I don't think that is the problem. I have only been able to reproduce it once for a dealer, but they were not able to figure out the problem. – Cheryl, from Wisconsin.

Idle is controlled through the IAC motor in the throttle body by the PCM which interprets signals sent by a variety of sensor inputs. One of the sensors is the power steering pressure switch. The switch improves vehicle idle quality by causing a readjustment of the engine idle speed as necessary when increased fluid pressure is sensed in the power steering system. The switch functions by signaling the PCM that an increase in pressure of the power steering system is putting additional load on the engine. This type of condition exists when the front tires of the vehicle are turned while the vehicle is stationary and the engine is at idle speed. When the PCM receives the signal from the switch, it directs the engine to increase its idle speed. There may be an issue with this switch, the IAC motor or one of the other sensor inputs. Your local dealer can test the switch, but again must be able to duplicate the issue upon command to accurately troubleshoot it.


1871. I took my 2002 TE PT with 60.5k miles into the shop and they replaced the lower arm bushings and the left front tie rod as well as doing an alignment. Do these repairs indicate eventual steering rack failures? Also, I'm wondering if the power steering or anything else needs to be specifically checked as a result of those worn out parts. I did look at letter 1099 in your database, and was surprised to see replacements at 39K miles. I appreciate your service and thorough discussions; even though I don't do any work myself on the car, so thank you very much. – Holly, from Minnesota.

No, not necessarily, however a number of early model year PT's (2001-2003) had issues with the power steering system components (pump, gear, etc.) which required replacement. The problems seemed to be more pronounced during the winter months when the colder temperatures caused the steering fluid to thicken. The thicker fluid was more difficult to pump therefore marginally functional systems were more prone to failure. That said, if you haven't experienced any issues by now, you're probably ok.

It is a closed system therefore very little maintenance is required. Other then checking the fluid level periodically the service schedule calls for inspecting and adjusting the power steering pump belt tension (See owner manual for service intervals). Therefore unless you notice an issue; whining, squeaking or growling noises, low fluid level in the reservoir, etc. I wouldn't be overly concerned. The most significant failures that we see now are the power steering pressure switch, which help control idle.


1872. I have a 2003 GT PT with 73k miles. The interior/exterior as well as instrument cluster lights flicker (dim -bright) while driving. This is obviously more noticeable at night. If while driving and brakes are applied this will cause the problem. It seems anything that puts a load on electrical system will also make the lights flash. The battery was replaced as dealer identified the battery as the cause. Not the case, I returned with the car to dealer only to have the alternator replaced, not the cure. This has the techs at the dealership puzzled as they can't seem to find the source. Do you have any suggestions? – Vince, from Canada.

Some early model year owners have reported flickering lights however Chrysler has indicated that this is normal. If the flickering is excessive I would suggest that you continue to work with the dealer. As they indicated the alternator is a possibility and a good place to begin. Other areas would include the multifunction switch and BCM or cluster since it controls much of the lighting. See Tech Library, Lamps subsection.


1873. We have a 2001 LE OPT with 117k miles. The alarm went off for no reason. I relocked the car and about fifteen minutes later the alarm sounded again. I locked the car from the inside this time, no further alarms. I unlocked car for return trip and the liftgate light stayed on along with the courtesy and dome lights. Stopped, shut the car off to try resetting it, and it didn't help. As we were putting car in reverse gear the liftgate and courtesy lights went out but as we went through neutral and into drive they came back on. We have done some troubleshooting, checking the grounds on the inside of the left quarter G300 and G301 I believe. While doing these checks we noticed that the Liftgate light is not fully illuminated unless the door is actually open. Also we have 2001 service manual that shows a "Liftgate Ajar Switch", we don't seem to be able to find this switch. Any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated. – Bob, from Oregon.

Our 2002 SM indicates that the Liftgate Ajar switch (Black 2 way connector) is located on the bottom of the liftgate door however it's not visible or accessible from outside the door. To access the switch you'll have to remove the door trim panel.

Our 2001 Body Diagnostic manual includes a variety of symptom system faults but nothing specifically like what you describe here. The closest is “Liftgate Indicator Stay On” and possible causes are:

Liftgate Ajar switch shorted
RKE Module - Liftgate Ajar short to ground
Liftgate Ajar switch sense wire shorted
Instrument Cluster Defective - Liftgate Ajar short

The lighting that you describe is controlled by the cluster and the VTT theft system works with the RKE module. More troubleshooting will be required to isolate the issue.


1874. I have a 2004 GT (HO) PT with 52.7k miles. I'm having problems starting the PT. When I turn the ignition, all I get is a clicking sound. Thanks for the help. – Clint, from California.

If the starter solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may be insufficient power to operate the starter or the starter may be bad. You need at least 10v to turn over the starter. A bad or failing battery, corroded battery cables/connections, poor solenoid or ground connections, or high resistance in the solenoid itself could also be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to operate the starter, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid may be needed, not a starter. If there is no voltage or insufficient voltage at the solenoid and the battery and connections are ok, I would look at the ignition switch next; a number have failed and been replaced.


1875. I have a 2001 LE PT export (2.0L) with 137k miles. The inside cabin lights do not want to switch off when I lock the car and I'm getting a P1784 DTC. Thank you. – Monieb, from South Africa.

The interior lights are controlled through the BCM (cluster) however I would look at the multifunction switch first. A number have failed and been replaced.

I don't believe that the P1784 issue is related to the lighting given that most 1700 series DTC's are related to the Transaxle/TCM.

P1784 - LR Pressure Switch Sense Circuit

When Monitored: Whenever the engine is running.

Set Condition: The appropriate code is set if one of the pressure switches are open or closed at the wrong time in a given gear.

Possible causes include:

Loss of Prime (P1791) Present
Related Relay DTC's Present
Intermittent Wiring & Connectors Conditions
Transmission Relay Output Circuit Open
L/R Pressure Switch Sense Circuit Open
L/R Pressure Switch Circuit Short To Ground
L/R Pressure Switch Sense Circuit Short To Voltage
L/R Pressure Switch
TCM (L-R Pressure Switch)

Follow up from owner - The interior lights are now switching off. I basically turned the multifunction switch dimmer from off to max a couple of times. I'll contact my local dealer about the fault code.


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