The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ed.
Part Sixty Three Q&A 1551 - 1575
1551. I have a 2002 TE PT with 85k miles. The 4-wire trailer wire connector combines the brake light and turn signal light on one wire. I want to know if this will cause feed back to the turn signal or brake light circuit; could be a problem? Thanks for your time. Tom, from California.
PT taillights have separate turn and stop lamps, and most trailers have shared lamps, therefore a 4 to 3 wire converter is usually required. If you're using such a converter you should be ok. You may want to check with the retailer or manufacturer to verify your connector/converter operates in the same manner.
1552. I have a 2001 LE PT with 79k miles. I have an overheating problem, which is due to the radiator fan not working. I've checked all the fuses and relays and all seem to be working fine. Haven't checked the connection at the fan nor checked if fan is bad. What else should I check? Thanks in advance for your help. Stafford, from Maryland.
If the fan is inoperable and you have ruled out the fuse and relays in the PDC under the hood, and the connections, the next step would be to test the fan. The diagnostic is available in the Cooling System Guide however you would need a DRB scan tool to conduct the test. If you don't have a scan tool your local dealer can conduct the test. If the fan is OK, the diagnostic may be helpful in narrowing down the issue to another component.
If the fan is defective it is a dual-speed electric motor driven fan. The radiator fan module or assembly includes an electric motor, fan blade, and a support shroud that is attached to the radiator. The motor brushes have a tendency to burn out; it is a fairly common failure on the PT. The motor is a non-serviceable component; the fix consists of replacing the entire radiator fan module. Many owners with DIY skills replace the module on their own given the replacement cost through the dealer. You'll find a replacement guide and tips on where to find a less expensive replacement module in the Pit area on the site. Review the Top 10 Issues guide in the Pit area while you're in there.
If the fan checks out OK the next step would be to check for a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor, or an issue with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Follow up from owner - Thanks for you help. I was able to diagnose the problem which turned out to be the fan. I had current all the way to the fan connector. I had to get a new fan from the dealer, $300 bucks. After complaining, the parts guy gave it to me for $253 which was still high, but I had to get it installed for work on Monday.
1553. I purchased new Power Slot Rotors for my fathers 2004 BE PT with 45k miles. He recently took it into the garage he uses and they told him that the rotors were thin and barely met California requirements. The Rotors have never been turned and have operated flawlessly. I personally feel they are pulling the wool over his eyes and are taking advantage of his trust. What are the rotor specs for usability (thickness)? Thank you for your time. Craig, from California.
With the OE rotors there are two different sizes available dependent on brake application. Vehicles with the brake sales code BRB (Disc/Drum combination) and BRT (Disc/Disc combination) use standard size brake rotors. Vehicles equipped with the brake sales code BR4 (Performance Disc/Disc combination) use heavier brake rotors.
BRB minimum rotor thickness after turning: 21.40mm or 0.843
BR4 minimum rotor thickness after turning: 26.40mm or 1.039
You'll have to check the min/max specifications on the rotors you purchased to determine whether they can be turned. Specifications are usually printed on the side of each rotor.
Can't speculate on California's specifications, or quality of Powerslot products; we have not received any owner feedback.
1554. I have a 2004 Classic (export) PT with 26k mile and aftermarket Startech wheels 235/40/18. The rear tires are scrubbing very badly. I had the rear wheels tracked and they are toeing in by 1/2 a degree. Is there a cure/remedy? Thank you. James, from England.
The suspension angles on the PT that can be adjusted are as follows:
Front Camber, Toe
Rear Camber, Toe
Toe-in is produced when the front edges of the wheels on the same axle are closer together than the rear edges.
Toe-out is produced when the front edges of the wheels on the same axle are farther apart than the rear edges.
Excessive toe-in or toe-out causes wear on the tread edges and a feathered effect across the tread.
Toe-out on turns is the relative positioning of the front wheels while steering through a turn. This compensates for each front wheel's turning radius. As the vehicle encounters a turn, the outboard wheel must travel in a larger radius circle than the inboard wheel. The steering system is designed to make each wheel follow its particular radius circle. To accomplish this, the front wheels must progressively toe outward as the steering is turned from center. This eliminates tire scrubbing and undue tire wear when steering a vehicle through a turn.
The condition may or may not be correctable with your aftermarket wheels. I would suggest visiting the retailer who installed them and having them evaluate the problem.
1555. I have a 2006 BE PT with 10.5k miles. Can the OE RKE be added to a BE model? If so what parts need to be ordered? Also, can an EVIC module be added/ swapped in the left Tach Gauge pod? - Ned, from Florida.
The most cost effective time to add optional equipment is when the vehicle is being built. Once the consumer takes possession of the vehicle many optional features can become quite expensive and impractical to install. Service manuals do not provide installation instructions for optional equipment which has not been installed in the vehicle at the factory.
Your local dealer can better advise you on the requirements, cost and availability of OE RKE and EVIC systems. The 2007 Mopar catalog indicates that the OE RKE system is available as an optional item on some vehicles, but that does not include the PT. They do offer an EVS II option for vehicles without the OE RKE.
2006- 2007 PT Cruiser
Enjoy the protection of electronic vehicle security with the Mopar EVS II Security System. For EVS II for vehicles without an OE RKE system- Complete kit includes vehicle harness and offers perimeter/interior protection, horn-honk alarm, starter interrupt and two key fobs to arm and disarm the system. It can not be used on vehicles with the Mopar Remote Start feature. P/N 82209717, About $219.00
1556. I have a 2001 LE PT with 60k miles. No problems, other than the metal to metal noise sound that comes from the rear drums, which only occurs in the morning when it's cold. Can ABS brakes and traction control be added to my car? Right now I only have disk in front and drums on the rear. Thanks. - Tony, from California.
Anti-lock 4-wheel disc brakes, which included traction control, were optional equipment on the 2001 base and limited edition models.
If you intend to add ABS and traction control you would also have to convert the rear drum brakes to disc. Wyckoff Chrysler has a rear drum to disc conversion kit which includes new parking brake cables, rear parking brake shoes and hardware, caliper mounting brackets, hub & bearings assemblies, rear disc pads and rotors for about $1400.
The complete (disc brakes, ABS and TC) conversion, if possible, would be very costly and certainly not economical for a 2001 vehicle with 60k miles. Check with your local DC dealer to determine if it is possible and pricing. You can read more about the rear brake drum noise here.
1557. We have a 2001 TE PT with 143k miles. Occasionally, and for no apparent reason, the oil malfunction light comes on and chimes, then shuts off. It did it earlier this weekend, twice yesterday, and not at all today. We immediately check the oil, which is at an acceptable level. I think it's an issue with either the oil pump or sensor. What step should I take next? I'd like to assume it's the sensor and replace that, but I won't risk the engine not being lubricated. Is there a simple test I can do? Steven, from Michigan.
Intermittent issues are always challenging to DIY resolve. I would not automatically assume that it is the oil pressure sensor switch; could also be the pump as you suggested, or a short or ground, loose connection, or issue with the cluster. With an intermittent issue I always check the wiring and connectors first. The service guide does provide a diagnostic for checking the oil pressure however a gauge is required. The diagnostic manual provides a test for checking the oil pressure switch however it utilizes a scan tool to do so. You might be able to conduct a DIY test using a voltmeter using the specs in the manual but we haven't personally done so. These guides are available through the Pit area if you do not own one.
If you are experiencing a drop in normal idle speed prior to the indicator popping on, the low oil pressure indication may be the result of the idle speed being too low. Idle is controlled by the IAC motor through a variety of PCM inputs. First check for any stored fault codes which might help isolate the issue. If there are no fault codes you can try cleaning the throttle body which houses the IAC motor, to ensure the pintle isn't hanging up. If that doesn't help have the PT tested for minimum air flow. Could be a failing IAC motor or any of the inputs that control idle through the PCM, or the PCM or software.
1558. I have a 2001 LE PT with 70k miles. The door locks were opening and closing by themselves, so the dealer changed the RKE module. This seems to have corrected the problem but my security alarm system no longer works. When the ignition is turned on the theft alarm light comes on for a second then turns off. When I turn off the ignition, remove the key and lock the doors with either power door lock button or keyless entry transmitter the theft alarm light does not come on and alarm is not armed. Is RKE module faulty, not programmed right, dip switches in wrong position or wrong RKE module installed? Thanks for your help. Robert, from Canada.
The remote keyless entry system allows locking and unlocking of the vehicle door(s) liftgate, panic alarm and arming or disarming of the vehicle theft security system, using the hand held (FOB) transmitter. When replacing a faulty RKE module, the replacement module must be configured with a DRB scan tool for proper RKE/VTTS system operation. Your description of the issue suggests that they didn't program the module correctly. It's time for another visit to the dealer.
1559. I have a 2004 TE (LO) PT with 26k miles. I don't have a problem, I only need advice. I want to use synthetic transmission fluid. I want to drain all the fluid including the torque converter. Can I drain the converter without taking anything apart? The pan and filter are no problem, but I can't seem to find any info on the converter. Any help would be great. Thanks. Stu, from New York.
The service manual provides two methods for draining the transaxle fluid standard and alternative. The standard method is preferred; dropping the pan allows the most amount of fluid to drain. The alternative method utilizes suction through the dipstick which can leave a larger percentage of fluid behind. The service manual indicates that when separating the converter from transmission a suitable drain pan must be placed under the converter housing end of the transmission. That suggests that a residual amount of fluid is left in the system, regardless of draining method. I would think there would be an easier way to drain both the converter and transaxle, but were not transmission experts, therefore you would be better served by checking with a pro shop that specializes in this work.
1560. I have a 2001 LE PT with 90k miles and can not get any heat out of any vents. Any suggestions? David, from Indianapolis.
Lack of details results in a number of possibilities with a no or insufficient heat condition.
1. Coolant level low. Check level, add as necessary.
2. Obstructions in heater hose fittings at engine. Remove heater hoses at both ends and check for obstructions. Repair as necessary.
3. Heater hose kinked. Locate and un-kink.
4. Thermostat stuck in the open position. A good test is to start a cold engine and VERY CAREFULLY check the upper radiator hose. Coolant should not move through the hose until the engine starts to warm up. At that point the hose will feel warm. If the thermostat is stuck on open, you'll feel the coolant in the hose as soon as the cold engine is started.
5. Water pump is not pumping coolant to heater core. When the engine is fully warmed up, both heater hoses should be hot to the touch.
6. Plugged heater core. Cooling system crud can cause the heater to malfunction. Clean or replace core. Flush the cooling system as part of your regular maintenance schedule to avoid future problems.
7. Blend air door not functioning properly. If both the heater and defroster are not functioning correctly look for inoperative vacuum controlled blend air door. Check for and repair or re-attach a loose vacuum hose.
8. Obstructed cowl air intake. Check and if necessary clear debris.
Unable to respond email bounced back as undeliverable. Invalid email name/account.
1561. I have a 2006 BE PT with 600 miles. The vehicle has pulled to the right since I purchased it. The dealer is unable to fix it and now claims that it normal. Is this normal for the PT? Thanks for your time. Doug, from Canada.
That's nonsense. I would suggest finding another dealer an obtaining a second opinion.
Tire pull can be caused by the following:
1. Uneven tire pressure.
2. Mismatched tires.
3. Uneven ride height.
4. Dragging brake.
5. Inoperative brake on opposite side.
6. Incorrect front wheel alignment setting (camber).
7. Worn ball joints or suspension bushings.
8. Power steering gear imbalance.
9. Defective tire (conicity).
If this condition existed when you took possession of the new vehicle you can rule out some of these possibilities. If the second dealer arrives at the same conclusion take the vehicle to the tire manufacturers local repair shop and have them check the vehicle. I will assume that they're OE Goodyear tires. If so, owners have reported sporadic problems with the OE tires during the past 5 model years.
Here's an interesting Tire Rack article on how to diagnose and isolate a pulling tire.
Follow up by owner It's been to the dealer four times to get the "pulling to the right" issue resolved. The first two times they tried to realign the front end. The third time they claimed it was caused by a defective front tire. Then they reinstalled the "defective" tire on the rear! The fourth time I took the service manager out for a drive. She agreed that it still wasn't right. We took another PT out for a drive and it tracked straight. They took four tires off that one and put them on mine. Still no change in the car even though the service department said it was fine. I've scheduled a re-alignment at an independent shop next week, which the dealer will pay for.
Follow up by owner I had the car realigned at the independent garage. They did it once, then twice then rotated the tires around. Still not much change. I talked to the dealership again and they suggested that we try a better quality of tire. I went back to the independent garage and had them install a top quality tire. Success! Even the alignment mechanic was amazed at the difference. It runs straight now. For about the first five minutes of driving I found myself correcting the vehicle (even though it wasn't necessary) I was that used to doing it. Thanks for your help.
PT DIY follow up Congratulations, your persistence paid off. Regrettably, I'm not surprised by the outcome. The OE Goodyear tires have been a problem for a number of other owners dating back to the 2001 model year.
1562. I have a 2004 BE PT with 39k miles. I changed the rotors & brake pads (ceramic) 6 months ago. Yesterday I started to hear a metal-to-metal sound on the left front. Sure enough, the pads were worn to almost nothing on the left front. I am a little hard on the brakes due to fact that I am a fire officer and use my PT lights & siren responding to calls, but 6 months (6,500 miles) seems like a little too soon? Can't figure out why? Joseph, from Connecticut.
The front brakes do more than 70 percent of the work when stopping the PT. Ceramic pads should last much much longer than 6,500 miles under normal or the aggressive driving conditions that you describe. If the pad wear on the right wheel is normal I would look for a dragging brake issue. Inspect the caliper and or for binding caliper pins or bushings.
1563. I have a 2005 GT (HO) Convertible. I the left the lights on and had to jump start it, but I think something blew. I can not roll the power windows up or the electric top. Mindy, from Tennessee.
Try this first.
Try this second.
Follow up from owner - It was a combination of both. The fuses were good after the battery disconnect. Then I removed and reinstalled the IOD fuse which resolved the problem. Thank you; if you were here I would kiss you.
1564. I have a 2001 BE PT. The rack and pinion has gone out, and from what I can tell it is really difficult to replace because there is a crossmember right below it. Do I have to remove it to replace, or is there another way? Christopher, from California.
Replacing the power steering gear is not an easy task. It's mounted on the crossmember and the outer tie rods attach to the steering knuckles. There's no work around to lowering the crossmember to access the gear. I would suggest that you have a service manual on hand if you decide to DIY. The OE procedure is also available through the Pit area if you would like to review it.
1565. I have a 2003 LE PT (2.0L export) with 75k miles. I have the message "No Fuse" is my instrument cluster. Searching on this site I have found this is related to the IOD fuse under the hood. I have checked this and replaced, but still get the same message. My door locks, mirrors, stereo and interior lights all don't work as well as no chimes from the car. I have no error codes when i run both tests. This started intermittently and sometimes the car would be fine with no error messages. It's working fine now, but the car always reports this problem. This sounds like to me like a corroded connection. The PT is now out of warranty in the UK (plus 3yrs old) so I'm a little reluctant to take it back to Chrysler so I was going to take a look myself. I was going to check the cabling between the IOD fuse under the hood to the stereo power. Hopefully once I get power back to the stereo wire than all other peripherals will be fed with power again. Thanks! Simon, from the UK.
Usually removing and resetting the IOD fuse resolves this issue. If the IOD issue is intermittent I would also look for a corroded or loose connection. Before you begin the laborious task of tracing the wiring I would suggest that you check the condition of the IOD fuse holder in the PDC. Other owners have reported similar issues with other fuses which turned out to be corroded and or dirty fuse holders. You also want to look for worn fuse holders which no longer provide enough spring tension to firmly grab the fuse. Some owners have elected to bend the fuse holder tabs in order to increase their grabbing ability rather than replace the PDC which is laborious. (The PDC may be repairable in these instances however we don't have any information to support that idea.)
You may also want to review this TSB for the IOD that DC recently issued for a similar intermittent issue on 2006/07 models. On these model years the PDC is called the Total Integrated Power Module.
If these suggestions don't help, review the wiring schematics.
Follow up from owner - I checked the fuse housing in the PDC and all was ok, no corrosion, etc. I traced the wiring round the front of the car and found that one of the two wires from the fuse had a resistance of 1MΩ between the PDC and the loom behind the front grille. It looked like a cable had been damaged where it routes around the front headlight area. I ran a new cable in between these points and the fault has been rectified. Thanks for your help, and in particular the wiring diagrams on the site.
1566. I have a 2001 BE PT with 70k miles. My driving lights fuse keeps blowing which keeps the driving lights from working at night, how can I find the short in this circuit? Charles, from Virginia.
If you are using anything but the OE lamps and blowing fuses reinstall the OE's and test for blown fuse.
If you are using OE lamps, I would begin by checking the most likely area of concern - the condition of the fuse holder. Look for corrosion and check the condition of the fuse holder. The fuse holder must grab the fuse firmly. Over time and repeated removal/insertion of fuses the holder can weaken and loose tension which can result in poor contact and blown fuses. This has been an issue with some owners, who have in some instances been able to bend the clips which grab the fuse to create additional tension against the fuse.
The next thing to inspect would be the condition of each lamp/socket on this circuit.
If everything else looks ok it may be a problem with the wiring. You'll need a service manual, ohm/volt meter and experience in this area to troubleshoot. Wiring schematics are also available through the Pit area.
1567. I have a 2002 LE PT with 82k miles. Do water pumps go bad at 39,000 miles? This is my second water pump. The bill this time will be $1100. Has any one else encountered this problem? Robin, from California.
No, it's not a normal occurrence. Water pumps do fail, however not that often or twice in 82k miles. It's an expensive repair on the PT because of the work involved in accessing it. We normally suggest that when an owner has their timing belt replaced they also replace the water pump. It is far more cost effective to have both items replaced at the same time. The timing belt and tensioner should be replaced at 90K miles, per the maintenance schedule. You might consider having the timing belt replaced now while they're in there. I would suggest that you call DC customer service and see if they can help you out with the water pump. If the dealer you are working with installed the first one ask why it failed so quickly and what they can do to help you out.
1568. I have a preowned 2002 BE PT with 58k miles. I love the vehicle, but noticed 2 problems in the 1st week of use. The speedometer registers high. I noticed it in a local school zone where we normally drive 35 miles an hour. Speedometer registered 60mph ... tachometer registered 2000rpm ... speed should have been right around 38-42mph ... I suspect the odometer is also rolling up inflated miles but have not checked that out yet for accuracy. When driving at highway speed (50-70mph) and the rear right window is down a few inches for air, there is a wind noise in the rear that consists of a loud, deep thumping sound. It goes away when windows are raised. We're still on a used car 30 day warranty. Any insights or help would be appreciated. Thank you. Frank, from Minnesota.
The instrument cluster electronically drives the speedometer, odometer, fuel/temperature gauges, and tachometer.
The accuracy of the speedometer/tachometer can be affected by a variety of factors.
1. At 58k miles you've had at least one tire change, and possibly the rims. The OE Goodyear tires/rims on the basic edition are:
15" Stamped Steel Wheel
Diameter 15.0 inches
Width 6.0 inches
Bolt Pattern 5 x 100mm
Wheel Offset 36.5mm
Tire P195/65R15 Goodyear Eagle LS Radials
Revolutions per Mile 835
If the replacement tires and or rims are sized differently that could result in speedometer/tachometer inaccuracies.
2. Pinion Factor Setting
When different sized tires and or rims are introduced the pinion setting must be readjusted to compensate for the change. It is our understanding that there are limitations to the adjustment. In other words, some differently sized tires can not be factored into the adjustment to correct speedometer/tachometer inaccuracies. The pinion adjustment is programmed into the TCM/PCM using a DRB scan tool.
If the tires/rims are the correct size, but the PCM/TCM has been replaced and the technician failed to or incorrectly programmed the pinion factor you would also experience speedometer/tachometer inaccuracies.
3. There may be an issue with the speedometer/tachometer gauges. If the gauges are not operating correctly the instrument cluster must be replaced. Perform the Instrument Cluster Self Test.
A. Turn the ignition off.
B. Press and hold the Trip Reset button.
C. Turn the ignition on.
D. Observe the gauges in question while the Instrument Cluster performs the Self Test.
E. The gauges should position at the following calibration points:
Speedometer: 20mph, 55mph, 75mph and 120mph
Tachometer: 2000rpm and 6000rpm
If the gauges calibrate correctly the instrument cluster is probably ok.
4. The vehicle speed readings for the speedometer are taken from the output speed sensor. The output speed sensor is a two-wire magnetic pickup device that generates an AC signal as rotation occurs. It is threaded into the transaxle case, sealed with an o-ring, and is considered a primary input to the PCM/TCM. The vehicle speed signal is taken from the output speed sensor. The PCM converts this signal into a pulse per mile signal and sends the vehicle speed message across the communication bus to the BCM (part of the instrument cluster). The BCM sends this signal to the Instrument Cluster to display vehicle speed to the driver. The vehicle speed signal pulse is roughly 8000 pulses per mile. A failing speed sensor or poor connection can cause speedometer/tachometer inaccuracies. The dealer would use their scan tool to check for any outstanding speed sensor DTC's.
Wind Noise - A number of owners have complained about wind noise and or air pressure on their ears when rolling down a rear window. This can be alleviated for the most part by cracking a window on the opposite side of the vehicle and or adjusting the window up/down to affect the amount of airflow.
1569. I have a 2005 TE PT with 21k miles. I am replacing the instrument cluster. I need to know the location of the M1 fuse so I can remove it before changing the cluster. Thank you for your time. Dominick, from New York.
The M1 fuse is the IOD fuse (#18) located in the power distribution center under the hood.
1570. I have a 2001 LE PT (2.0L export). The UK limited edition of the PT Cruiser comes with factory fitted front spot lights. On my model these do not work. Checking the fuse in position 8 of the fuse box on the dash, there is no fuse. In fact, there is no fuse connector to put a fuse in. Having taken the fuse box out there does not even appear to be any wires to the number 8 position. Am I looking at the correct fuse? Was there a differing wiring configuration for UK vehicles? I hope you can help. Ray, from United kingdom.
There is no description of a front spot light lamp listed in the service manual for the export. There is however a front position lamp that is incorporated into each of the headlamp units which utilize a clear lens and clear bulb. They are operated with the headlamp switch which is incorporated in the multi-function switch.
According to our 2002 SM fuse #8 (15 amp, fused headlamp relay output) in the fuse box is available on the domestic model only, not in the built up export.
The wiring section for the front lamps does not mention the front position lamp by name. Instead it refers to a left and right city lamp (export only) which I presume are the front position lamps since the term city lamps does not exist in the exterior lamp section of the SM. (Love these manuals.) The city lamps are fed through the multifunction switch by fuse #2 (15 amp) in the interior fuse box on the export.
There is a diagnostic to troubleshoot the front position lamp and wiring schematics (2002), available through the Pit area if you need them.
1571. I have a 2006 TE export PT with 542 miles. My vehicle is showing an average consumption of 12.4 MPG. With the price of gas here in the UK at around the £3.86 per gallon it's costing me a fortune to run. Last Tuesday I returned the vehicle to the dealer for testing. After having the car for 1.5 hours the mechanic informed me that he had re-set the environment variables and installed a firmware fix to change the EVIC setting from showing US gallons to UK ones. Test drive indicated 19.8 MPG. Every day since then it's back to 12 MPG.I called the service manager and he said he would ring me back ASAP. I didn't hear anything by Saturday, so I called the general manager regarding my previous visit and numerous telephone calls. While he was extremely apologetic, he also indicated that the figures published in the Chrysler Publication that refer to the PT are in fact U.S. statistics and there is no such thing as a firmware fix available. The service manager was supposed to call and explain what was actually done, but has not as of this writing. Any help relating to this supposed up-grade /fix and I would be eternally grateful. Neil, from the United Kingdom.
I can't speak to the documentation in the export literature, although one would assume that it would be expressed to conform to local measures and equivalents. In the U.S. with the domestic model it is obviously MPG. That being said, DC issued a TSB (08-033-06) for some 2006 model year PT's which were built for use in the United Kingdom (sales code ABU). It involved flash reprogramming the instrument cluster, Cabin Compartment Node (CCN) to convert the Average Fuel Economy displayed in the instrument cluster from Miles Per Gallon (US Gallons) to Miles Per Gallon (Imperial Gallons). We have a copy of the TSB in the Pit area on the site. There seems to be a miscommunication problem within the dealership. You might try another local dealer or contacting DC directly for help.
1572. I have a 2002 LE PT with 65k miles. I am having a problem with my A/C, power windows and airbag light. When leaving work to go home yesterday, the A/C and windows were inoperable. I noticed that the airbag light would go off for about 5 seconds after ignition and then come on and stay on. Also the power door locks would lock each time the speed limit exceeded 15mph even though doors are already locked. I had this problem once before and it lasted about 3 hours and then everything returned to normal. It has been 14 hours and the problem has not gone away. I have had no recent work or additions to car and everything was working fine beforehand. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks. Fontina, from Georgia.
When the rolling door lock system is enabled, the RKE module will automatically lock all the vehicle doors and liftgate when all of the following conditions are met:
1. All doors are closed
2. The vehicle speed exceeds 25.7 Km/h (15 +/- 1 mph).
3. The throttle position sensor tip-in is greater than 10 +/- 2 degrees.
The RKE module will automatically re-lock all doors if the above conditions are met AND if any of the doors become ajar and then closed again. If this is what occurred it's working correctly.
Keep in mind that if the airbag indicator lamp comes on at any time other than during the bulb test, it indicates a problem in the airbag system, which may cause the airbags not to deploy when required, or to deploy when not required.
If the A/C doesn't work you can check fuse #7 (25amp), #10 (10amp) and #12 (10amp) in the interior fuse and fuse #11 (10amp) in the PDC under the hood.
It sounds electrical related, but there are too many issues occurring at one time to speculate what the cause might be, or whether these are random failures, without physical access to the vehicle. I would suggest that you see your local dealer for diagnose and repair as soon as possible.
Follow up from owner - I checked all of the fuses and they were fine. I performed the self diagnostic tests - no codes given. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the battery. The car was shutting down different components to have enough power to run car.
1573. I have a 2001 LE PT with 120k miles. The battery light is lit on the dash, indicating a charging system problem. Replaced the alternator and continuity tested all wires to PCM and battery. Problem remains. I'm considering replacing the PCM. Do I have to have it programmed afterwards to be able to drive the car? If so, must it be done by a dealer? Robert, from Pennsylvania.
Keep in mind that the charging, battery and starting systems are interdependent and that an issue which affects one system can set the charge light. For example, the battery temperature is predicted using the values of 4 existing sensors inputs. These inputs are Inlet Air Sensor, Coolant Sensor, Vehicle Speed Sensor, and Fan State (on/off). The charging lamp will come on if the inlet air temperature, coolant temperature, or vehicle speed sensor fail. If one of these sensors fail the charging system will default to 13.5 Volts. You can review the charging system guide in the Pit area for a complete operational description.
You would normally see a MIL and recorded DTC for a failing PCM. Given the replacement cost, I would not assume that it is faulty without having it tested by the dealer with their scan tool. While testing they can also perform a complete test of the charging, battery and starting systems. Replacing a PCM involves reprogramming the vehicles variables into the new one with a DRB scan tool and diagnostic manual. It is not a DIY repair.
1574. I have a 2003 LE PT with 48k miles. Where is the evap purge solenoid located? - Lans, from Montana.
It's located next to the power steering switch, which is on the back side of the power steering gear under the vehicle.
1575. I have a 2004 TE PT with 42k miles. The check engine light came on, and self tests revealed code P0073: Ambient Temp Sensor High. I changed the sensor, but still no luck. Please help. Kinzo, from Texas.
Fault code P0073 Ambient Temp Sensor High - Ambient temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage.
Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Voltage above 4.9 Volts
(K145) AAT Signal Circuit Shorted To Battery Voltage
Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Internal Failure
(K145) AAT Signal Circuit Open
(K167) Sensor Ground Circuit Open
You will need a DRB scan tool, voltmeter and a powertrain diagnostic manual to troubleshoot the fault. There's nothing more you can do other then see your local dealer.
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