The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ed.
Part Sixty Q&A 1476 - 1500
1476. I have a 2002 LE PT and would like to know where the engine number is located? I would be grateful for any assistance given. Thanks. – Anji, from the USA.
The engine identification number on the 2.4L engine is located on the rear of the cylinder block.
1477. I have a 2002 BE PT with 77k miles. I have a replacement power steering sensor, and need to know sensor location, please? – Steve, from South Carolina.
The power steering fluid pressure switch is on the back side of the power steering gear. If you need to review the OE guide, you'll find one here.
1478. I hear a clunking noise when I go over bumps (in the rear) - a friend thinks this is my bell crank. What is a bell crank and is it possible to change myself? – Anonymous, forum post.
The bell crank is part of the PT's rear suspension (watts link assembly) system. It is mounted to the rear axle. Two links extend from the bell crank to brackets mounted on the body of the vehicle. The watts link assembly serves the same purpose as a track bar. That is, it is used to control rear axle lateral movement and provides cross-car location of the axle. The bell crank is not serviceable and must be replaced if found faulty. The service manual includes a diagnostic to determine the condition of the bell crank and replacement guide. If you don't have access to a manual you'll find front and rear suspension guides in the Pit area.
1479. I have a 2003 GT Turbo (HO) with 43k miles. After not using the car for a week, I started it up and let it idle for about 15 minutes then revved it to 2000rpm for about 15 seconds, then floored it a couple of times to see if it hesitated. I noticed that with the pedal to the floor the engine shakes quite a bit and won't go beyond 4000rpms. The car still accelerates well and idles well. Could this be the turbo unit? Thanks. – David, from Virginia.
No, it's the electronic rev limiter that's kicking in.
1480. I have a 2001 PT with 40k miles. I noticed the rear window controls on the center console were dislodged so I removed and reinstalled the switches. After that I noticed the RKE system didn't work. Is there some connection between these two systems? If not is there a relay or some component I can check. Thanks in advance. – Jim, from Florida.
I will assume that your power windows are working ok since you completed the repair on the rear window switches. The remote keyless entry system allows locking and unlocking of the vehicle doors liftgate, panic alarm and arming or disarming of the vehicle theft security system (if equipped), using the hand held radio frequency (RF) transmitter. The system does tie into other system modules via the PCI bus; however its only connection to the power window system is through the window regulator on the PT convertible, it does not affect the sedan. Two transmitters are supplied with the vehicle. I assume that you have ruled out the transmitter or FOB by replacing the battery and or using your spare FOB to test the RKE system. The next thing to do is recheck fuses #13 (10 amp), #3 (20 amp) and #10 (10 amp) in the interior fuse box. If they are OK, pull, check and reset the IOD fuse in the PDC under the hood. Read through this section for information on the IOD fuse prior to checking the fuse.
If these suggestions don't resolve the issue, the local dealer will have to test the FOB to make sure it is working correctly and scan the RKE module to determine if it's ok. RKE system module failures have been reported by a fair number of owners.
1481. We bought our plum 2005 PT Convertible with 10k miles in West Virginia and my wife loves it to death. Driving in the U.S. is so much fun, so we enjoyed it for two nice summers. This Christmas we took it to Belgium, and we haven't driven it since. When taking it from the boat, its battery was dead, so we jumpstarted it and drove from the port to our house without any problems. Since then, it has been sitting in the garage for several months and the battery predictably died again. This week it was nice here in Western Europe, so my wife wanted to take her PT for a spin - top down of course. Unfortunately the battery was dead again. We jump started the engine and discovered that the electric windows and the top don't work anymore! We found a similar question (#1330) posted by another owner and checked the underhood 20amp fuse, which appears to be ok. Can you help me find out what happened and get my wife spinning her convertible again? Thanks! – Peter, from Belgium.
The operation of the convertible top is tied to the operation of the windows. The windows must lower (front window 40mm, lower the respective rear window for 0.52 seconds, approx. 55mm) before the driver window regulator module will ground the top up relay control circuit and allow the top to open. The modules control window motor operation, smart glass functions and the convertible top operations (driver window module).
Check all of the fuses in the PDC and interior fuse box.
If all the fuses are good check the condition of the battery. Automotive lead-acid batteries must be kept at or near full charge for optimum performance and longevity. If a battery is run down or becomes fully discharged, undesirable changes start to occur on the lead plates inside the battery. The plates develop a layer of sulfate that resist recharging and reduce the battery's ability to store power. If the battery is chronically rundown or discharged, it shortens battery life significantly. Continually jump starting the vehicle isn't good for the battery or interdependent charging and starting systems. Electrical systems and components can easily and inadvertently be damaged during this process. If you're not going to use the vehicle for a long period of time disconnect the IOD fuse to slow the battery discharge rate or remove the battery and periodically have it charged to maintain its condition. Review the IOD fuse information in your owner's manual or here.
If the fuses and battery ok, the dealer will have to diagnosis the issue with their scan tool and diagnostic manual. There is a TSB for this issue which affects some 2005 PT Convertibles and involves flash reprogramming the window regulator module.
Follow up from owner - It took the garage 3 hours of labor (claimed) so we had to pay Euro65 ($80) to get it fixed. According to the mechanic the electric circuit board malfunctioned after jumpstarting the car. The malfunction required flash reprogramming the PCM software.
1482. We have a 2003 GT (HO) with 40k miles. Last week my husband started having problems starting the PT (it wouldn't start right up). Today, after coming from Walgreen's, he can't turn the key in the ignition. The alarm system and key-in-ignition alert (beeping) still works when you put the key in the ignition. However the key won't turn, the steering wheel won't turn, and you can't put the car in gear. My husband is currently sitting in the parking lot of Walgreen's waiting for a tow truck, but the Chrysler dealership said it may cost $500-$700 to fix. What's going on? - Ayanna, from Texas.
I would take a close look at the ignition switch. A number of owners have reported failures. We receive a number of complaints about the switches each year as we head into the cooler weather months. The inability to turn the steering wheel is likely the steering wheel lock. To release the lock the key must be inserted into the ignition switch and the engine must be running.
For additional info on the ignition switch see the Top 10 Issues List and OE Ignition Switch Guides in the Pit area. See the Steering Wheel Lock section in your owners' manual for more information on that feature.
1483. I have a 2001 LE PT with 71k miles. My sunroof is leaking, what can I do to fix the problem? – Doreen, from New York.
Sunroof leaks can be caused by:
1. Drain tubes clogged or kinked or disconnected from the sunroof.
2. Glass panel improperly adjusted.
3. Faulty glass panel seal.
If you intend to DIY troubleshoot you'll need a service manual. If you don't have access to a service manual, you'll find the OE sunroof system guide in the Pit area.
1484. I have a 2001 LE PT with 120k miles. I believe that I threw a timing chain. I wanted to know what I should expect to pay at a dealer to have it replaced. – Joe, from Texas.
Owners have reported varied pricing. Your DC dealer can give you an estimate however you won't have a firm price until they inspect the engine for additional damage, which is not uncommon with timing belt disruptions. At 120k miles you may have been better off having it replaced while performing other scheduled maintenance.
1485. We have a 2001 BE PT with 89k miles. This week the windshield wiper went on and won't go off. Can you help, please? – Marilyn, from Arkansas.
If the windshield wiper will not turn off you have a faulty switch (check switch in low, high and intermittent position) or the park switch is poorly grounded.
1486. Our 2001 PT with 80k miles goes for days or weeks with everything fine, but then without warning the overhead console goes blank and the sunroof open/close switch quits working. The map lights continue to work, however. Any ideas? Thanks. – Greg, from California.
Intermittent problems can be difficult to resolve unless you can duplicate them while troubleshooting. Without duplication you won't be able to isolate the fault until complete failure. Trouble like this is often caused by issues with the circuitry, loose or failing connectors, fuses and or grounds. In this instance the sunroof switch is housed in the overhead console and two circuits feed the console and switch.
The overhead console reading and courtesy lamps operate on battery current (Fuse #13 10amp interior fuse box) that is provided at all times, regardless of the ignition switch position. If the lamps continue to work while you experience this issue that circuit is probably fine.
Fuse #14 20 amp in the interior fuse box feeds the keyed ignition switch, which in turn controls the power sunroof switch in the overhead console and other console functions.
I would suggest that you pull, inspect and clean fuse #14 20 amp (interior fuse box) and fuse holder contacts. If you continue to experience the problem after that it could be an intermittent open or short circuit, ignition switch and or failing console. I would take a close look at the ignition switch, a number have failed.
Wiring diagrams and an ignition switch diagnostic/guide is available through the Pit area if you need them.
Follow up from owner - Thanks, your suggestion about inspecting fuse #14, it led to the problem. When I removed fuse #14, I noticed that it resisted my finger pull quite a bit more toward one end of the fuse than the other. I tried removing some other fuses to confirm this. Fuse #14 was fine, so I reinstalled it. The console was still blank. On a hunch, I pushed on the top of the fuse and wiggled it - voila! It appears that the fuse block female contact is set too wide and doesn't grab the fuse male contact properly. If I want to adjust the female contact, it looks like I need special tools to extract it from the back of the fuse block. For now, I think I'll just put a slight bend in the leg of the fuse and see if that's "good enough" to work reliably.
1487. I have a 2003 BE PT with 63k miles. How do you remove the front rotors? They appear to be frozen on. I don't want to beat on them in fear of breaking them. I tried WD-40 and heat but they will not move. Please help. – Jim, from Michigan.
We haven't received any complaints from owners regarding the removal of the front rotors, only the rear rotors. If you're working from the service manual there's little more we can suggest other than perhaps a rubber or soft-faced metal mallet and or penetrating oil. Of course, if you plan to discard them you can be a little more aggressive with the hammer. If you're not working from a SM, perhaps you missed something. You can verify and or review the OE procedure here if you wish.
Follow up from owner - I finally got the rotor off, but, it was ruined. It was rusted in place it took a steel hammer and a lot of swinging to get it loose. The passenger side practically fell off. I think the difference was that the driver side was OE and the passenger side was a replacement. This time I sprayed the back of the rotors with anti seize. Hopefully that won't happen again. Thank you.
PTDIY follow up - Sorry to hear about the ruined rotor. That's rather unusual, normally a brake shop will replace the rotors in pairs therefore they should be identical on each axle. As you indicated a thin coat of anti-seize on mating surfaces between the hub and rotor is a good idea for easier future disassembly.
1488. I have a pre-owned 2006 TE PT with 360 miles. Aftermarket tires and rims (225/40ZR18 tires w/Alloy Technologies rims) were put on the vehicle before I purchased it. At highway speeds, the steering wheel wobbles bad. Had the dealership check this out, all they did is rotate the front two tires and claimed they balanced them. The steering wheel still shakes at highway speeds intermittently. I found no balancing weights on the rims. What should I do next? - Devin, from Pennsylvania.
With aftermarket wheels and tires, you may have little to fall back on for warranty coverage with the dealership. Hopefully, you have a good dealer, but some past owners have reported being caught right in the middle and paying for repairs. The dealership will blame the aftermarket tires or wheels, and the wheel and tire manufacturer will blame the suspension or steering components. Steering wheel wobble can be caused by a number of issues, including unequal tire pressure, out-of-balance wheel and tire assemblies, damaged tires, damaged or loose steering linkage and or worn suspension components. However, it is unlikely, given the low mileage on a new vehicle that there is an issue with the suspension or steering components. I suspect that the main focus will be on the wheels and tires. Contact the wheel/tire manufacturer and find out which shops in your area handle their line. Your next stop should be at a shop that specializes in this type of work. They are usually more adept at diagnosing these issues than the dealership.
1489. We have a 2005 TE PT with 4.5k miles. The automatic unlatch feature on the liftgate suddenly stopped working. My wife is very unhappy with this. – Robert, from USA.
Possible causes would include:
Liftgate Lock Motor
Door Unlock Relay Output Wire Open
Door Unlock Relay Output Wire Short to Ground Door Lock Relay Output Wire Open Door Unlock Relay Output
Short To Door Lock Relay Output Door Lock Relay Output Wire Short To Ground
Your PT is under warranty, make your wife happy, see your dealer.
1490. I have a 2002 TE PT with 58k miles. My engine light came. My brother is a mechanic, so he hooked it up to his computer and it said I have a small leak in the Evap system. The code was PO456. What does this mean and how can I fix it? Can you give me some info? – Rose, from Kentucky.
Fault P0456 - Evap System Small Leak
The 2005 Powertrain diagnostic manual lists the following possible causes:
Visual and Physical Inspection
Evaporative Emission Leak Detection
A DRB scan tool and automotive test equipment are used in conjunction with the manual to troubleshoot the fault. If you want to take a shot at resolving it on your own, part of the troubleshooting process includes a visual/physical inspection of the Evap system that a DIY'er could perform. If you do not have access to a diagnostic manual, our 2005 is available in the Pit area.
1491. I have a 2002 LE PT with 48k miles. I need to find out what type/size gasket to use when replacing the thermostat. Thank you. – Jason, from Arizona.
You may want to review the OE cooling system guide on the site. In order to access the thermostat you must remove the coolant outlet connector. There isn't a gasket in that location. Stick with the OE thermostat to avoid problems, don't use an aftermarket replacement.
If you decide to remove the thermostat housing (coolant outlet connector adapter), which is located below the thermostat you would have to replace the gasket, which is P/N 4792 637AA.
1492. I have a pre-owned 2003 BE PT with 57k miles, which was purchased on 3/2/06. It was checked and serviced by a local garage at purchase and recently after the problem began. The problem: Hiss followed by black puff of smoke heard and seen in right front. Problem has only happened 3 times in past two months. 1st & 2nd time: Car was stopped with emergency brake on and released just prior to start of engine. Engine was shut off after occurrence and was restarted with no further problem. 3rd time: Emergency brake was not on prior to start. Car had been running. Was stopped, started again and was accelerating into traffic when same thing happened. Engine was not shut off. Just kept going and nothing further happened. The local garage couldn't find anything wrong. – Peter, from Virginia.
There are no clues in the service manual. Unless the technician can duplicate the issue you may have difficulty resolving it until you experience a complete failure and or record a DTC. I would obtain a second opinion with a local DC dealer – they are far more familiar with their own vehicles then an independent mechanic and may have a better shot at resolving it. My resources outside the service manual suggest the following with regard to smoke, which may or may not be applicable in this situation. Black smoke is unburned fuel from too rich an air/fuel ratio. A rich condition can be caused by a bad O2 sensor, MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator, plugged air filter or injector. Typically, if you only see black smoke the first thing in the morning, it has to do with the fuel enrichment portion of your fuel injection system. If you see black smoke all the time, get it repaired ASAP. If you don't, you run the risk of ruining the catalytic converter.
1493. I have a 2001 LE PT with 83k miles. I need advice on how to replace the right side motor mount. The difficulty I am having is trying to remove it from the fender. There is simply no room between the fender and engine to remove it. Your advice is appreciated. Thank you. - Frank, Arizona.
Removing the engine mounts in the PT is a good deal of work. The left mount is fairly easy however the right mount is a bear and requires the removal of the engine assembly to provide enough clearance to access the mount. I would suggest that you have service manual on hand if you intend to DIY, or you can access our guide through the Pit area.
1494. I have a 2001 LE PT with 100k miles. The A/C keeps blowing fuses. I replace the fuse; the A/C blows cold for a while, than the fuse blows again. – Allen, from Arizona.
The service manual offers limited information for troubleshooting A/C issues. I've read that the A/C fuse will blow if the system is low on refrigerant and is working unusually hard, or if the compressor is hanging up. I would suggest visiting your local dealer or a shop that specializes in A/C repairs for further diagnosis.
1495. I have a 2001 LE PT with 99k miles. When I stop and shift to park, the motor wants to surge from 800 rpm to about 1200rpms. When I first bought the car with 84,000 miles it did this, but the lights flickered. The battery and alternator were bad and replaced. Everything has been fine until now. – Gary, from Pennsylvania.
Idle is controlled by the IAC motor through a variety of PCM inputs. It sounds like a sticky or dirty IAC motor. Try cleaning the throttle body and testing for results. It that doesn't help you may have to remove the IAC motor for inspection, cleaning and or possible replacement. Guides are available in the Pit area if you need them.
1496. I have a 2003 TE PT with 50k miles and auto transaxle. I noticed a problem after my 48k transmission fluid exchange. When the engine is cold or has not been driven for awhile, I get a hard jerk motion when I shift the car into drive from the park position. I've also notice that when the engine is hot, the jerk goes away when I place the car into drive. Is this a potential problem that I need to look into or is this normal for the PT? - Theo, from Arizona.
If the issue began shortly after the fluid change I would have it checked. You can review the transaxle system guide here however the service manual doesn't provide much help in troubleshooting issues an owner can utilize. I have a 2001 with AT and it doesn't behave in this manner.
Follow up from owner - I had the car checked out and found out that they only did a transmission fluid flush and didn't change out the transmission filter. After they changed the transmission filter, the car shifts nice without any jerking when car is placed in drive.
PT DIY follow up - The service manual calls for a filter and o-ring change each time the fluid is replaced. The standard method is to drop the pan, which would give them access to the filter. The alternative method is quicker; they utilize a suction method to siphon out the fluid through the dipstick, but it does not allow for a filter and o-ring change. It sounds like they initially used the alternative method.
1497. I have a 2002 LE PT with 26k miles, and was wondering if there is any way to have the automatic door locks activate as soon as the car is put into gear (reverse, drive, etc.), instead of the delayed/speed controlled way. My son has a 2005 Chevy Malibu Classic, and his doors lock as soon as the car is put onto gear; is possible to do that on my PT. Thanks in advance. – Nina, from Texas.
The PT offers an auto lock feature which occurs when the vehicle exceeds 15mph, or you can manually lock all doors with the press of one switch on the driver side door upon entering the vehicle however that is the extent of locking options which are available. I have a friend with a GMC Van which offers the same feature as your son's Chevy. It's a handy feature.
1498. I have a 2002 BE PT with 35k miles. I share a carport with some neighbors who have been spray-painting some metal furniture with Krylon. Some fine overspray seems to have covered my car, leaving a grainy feel to the finish. Polishing by hand removes it very slowly. The finish is clearcoat over Taupe Frost. What is strong enough to safely remove the paint without harming the finish? Thanks. – Dave, from Arizona.
We're not paint specialists, but if it were me, I would Clay Bar it. It's more work than polishing, but it would remove the overspray, other contaminants stuck to the paint, and improve the shine. Check with a pro auto paint or detailing shop prior to using any other method to remove the overspray. You can read more about Claying here.
1499. I own a 2003 LE PT with 50.6k miles. The heated seats activate without triggering the switch. While driving, sometimes they activate (both seats) and begin blinking hi/lo or a combination of the two. They cannot be turned off with the switch. The dealership has looked at it 3 times and has replaced the heating module twice. It is now in again today, but they claim that they cannot replicate the problem and are assuming that we are touching the controls. This is absolutely not the case. We are extremely frustrated with this situation. What do you suggest? – Robert, from Kansas.
The dealers assumption that you're accidentally triggering the switch with your leg would be logical given that this is probably a somewhat common occurrence, however if they've serviced the PT for the same issue three times I would think they would give you the benefit of the doubt. That being said, they are correct with regard to troubleshooting it. If they can't duplicate the condition they can't diagnose it. They can probably throw parts at it, but there is no guarantee that the issue would be resolved, and ultimately this could become a costly repair. So, your options are, wait for it to reoccur and bring it back to the dealer, obtain a second opinion from another dealer or call Chrysler customer service and request their help. Given that they have made three unsuccessful attempts to resolve the issue I would personally consider calling Chrysler customer service and requesting their help.
Follow up from owner – We called Chrysler, and they said they would try to help, but indicated the same thing about being able to duplicate the issue. In the interim, while starting the vehicle and sitting in the seats, the heat indicator lights began flashing again. After sitting in both seats, then the passenger and driver seat, and jumping up and down in the seats, it was determined that there is a short in the passenger's seat. The control module is under the passenger's seat; when someone sits in it, the short occurs. Now that they know, they are trying to fix the issue. Thank you for your response and not believing that we were out of our minds.
1500. I have a 2005 LE PT with 20k miles. I used the rear window defroster for the first time and observed that the top 4 wire segments heated normally and cleared the glass of condensation, the next 4 did not heat up, the next 3 did heat up, and the last 2 did not. This left a band of condensation across the middle of the rear glass that was not defrosted. Is there a fuse or some such thing that I can check? Thanks. – Andy, from Minnesota.
It is not likely the fuse or switch if the heating grid is partially operational, however you can double check fuse 6 (10amp) in the fuse block and fuse 8 (40amp) in the PDC under the hood. The more likely scenario is an open circuit in the heating grid. The dealer can repair the grid using the Mopar Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit (P/N 0454 9275). In either case your PT is currently under warranty.
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