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The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ed.


Part Fifty Eight Q&A 1426 - 1450

1426. I have a 2002 TE PT with 60k miles. We left the lights on by mistake and drained the battery. We tried to jump start the car, but accidentally hooked up the positive and negative jumper cables incorrectly. We quickly reversed this, but found that nothing would happen when trying to start the car, except for a “noFuse” message on the cluster display. The self test doesn't indicate any DTC's.

I discovered that this message is usually caused by the 20amp IOD fuse. After checking the fuse I confirmed that it was blown and replaced it, which corrected the problem on the display. We hooked up the jumper cables again, but the car still wouldn't do anything. There is power to everything, but the starter does not make any noise, nor does the fuel pump or anything else. I then checked every single fuse and relay, they were all okay. When I try to start the car with the lights on, the lights do not dim at all. Simply, nothing happens. The battery is slightly charged now and the interior and exterior lights seem to work just fine. It seems the starter is doing nothing. What might be causing this? Thank you. – Don, from Florida.

If you replaced a blown IOD fuse and checked the remainder of fuses and relays in the PDC under the hood, and interior fuse box, and they were ok, but the starter still doesn't turn over, it is possible that a circuit or component in the starter system were damaged when you attempted to jump start the vehicle with the crossed connections. But, before you assume that's the problem, consider having the battery recharged. Many starters won't do a thing unless there's at least 10 volts available from the battery. If the engine cranks and starts normally after the recharge you may not have suffered any further system damage. If the headlights continue to shine brightly when you attempt to start the engine and nothing happens (no cranking), voltage isn't reaching the starter. You'll have to troubleshoot the components in the starter system. You'll need a service guide for that. If you don't have access to one you'll find a starter system guide in the Pit area on the site.

Follow up from owner – The PCM was damaged and the dealer had to replace it.


1427. I have a 2003 LE PT with 48.6k miles. I want to know the benefits of upgrading to cross-drilled or vented/slotted rotors for a non-racing vehicle. I'm looking to add some new vented rotors, but aren't sure they really do anything different. I'm also going to add ceramic pads to decrease the brake dust. If you could provide some help. Thanks. – Colby, from Florida.

Racers use slotted/vented rotors to help reduce the temperature of the brake fluid in the calipers, which affects braking power. When temperatures are excessive, a foot will go all the way to the floor during braking. In street application, where the caliper temperature is below 400F, you won't see braking benefits from slotted/vented rotors.

We suggest selecting an application specific replacement rotor and pad from the same manufacturer to minimize any compatibility issues. Ceramic pads are a good choice; they're durable, dampen noise, and are low dust.


1428. I purchased a new 2005 TE PT (2.2L Diesel) from a dealer and 30 minutes later the instrument cluster failed. I brought it back to the dealer who told me that it would need a new cluster, and it would take 5-10 working days to arrive. I was later told, it would take an additional 5-10 days, which has now passed and I have been without my new car for more than a month. Is this a common problem on a PT? Do you think I am entitled to compensation? Thank you very much. – Susan, from England.

Sorry to hear of your situation so soon after your purchase. We have received some reports of instrument cluster failures, but nothing out of the ordinary. Unfortunately, for the most part, they are not serviceable. When a gauge or lamp fails the entire cluster must usually be replaced. In the US owners have reported receiving replacement IC's in 2-4 days. I don't know what availability is like outside the US. In your situation it should be a warranty repair, however regrettably most dealers do not reimburse owners for inconvenience. Given that it failed shortly after your purchase and the repair has greatly exceeded the estimated repair time I would think the dealer would be open to negotiating some sort of “good will” compensation (perhaps a rental vehicle). I would contact the general manager, explain the situation and request his or her help.


1429. I'm just trying to find out if you need to replace the whole rack to replace the inner tie rods on the PT?  Any help would be appreciated. – River-Happy, Forum Post.

According to the service guide and IPB the inner tie rods are part of the power steering gear and not serviceable on their own. Only the outer tie rods are serviceable.


1430. I have a 2002 LE PT with 45k miles. The original battery failed after two years. The dealer said the battery was defective and it was replaced. The replacement battery failed after 12 months, and the dealer gave the same explanation. Now, after 9 months this battery also died (March '06) and the dealer gave the same excuse after checking everything that could be checked on the car. I don't buy it. All those batteries couldn't have been defective. My guess the problem lies in the alternator. What do you recommend I do? Thank you. – Gunther, from Missouri.

It could be any number of things. It is important that the battery, starting, and charging systems be thoroughly tested and inspected any time a battery needs to be charged or replaced. The cause of abnormal battery discharge, overcharging or early battery failure must be diagnosed and corrected before a battery is replaced. If the dealer has replaced the battery 3 times without determining and resolving the actual source of the problem, it would appear that his only interest is selling you a new battery. I would suggest that you obtain a second opinion through another dealership or independent shop.


1431. I have a 2003 TE PT with 78k miles. The battery went dead, I jump started it, and the first two times it didn't do anything. On the third attempt the gauges on the instrument panel jumped all at once. On the fourth attempt the vehicle was getting a connection from the jumper cables and started right up. It has run fine and started strong and quickly since, but now the entire instrument panel is dead (no dash board lights). The overhead dome light is also inoperable when I adjust the cluster (multifunction) switch to the full up position. The car chime is inoperable when the door is open and the key is in the ignition when the engine is turned off. If you could help me solve this problem I would be very grateful. Thanks. – Dan, from Virginia.

A handful of owners have fried various components while attempting to jump start their vehicles either by cross connecting jumper cables or using incorrect jump starting procedures. Hopefully, you haven't fallen into this category. All of the features that you mention are controlled in part by the cluster. There are a number of fuses that feed the cluster however the first one you should check is the IOD fuse (#18, 20amp) in the PDC under the hood. It feeds a number of circuits in the vehicle. If the IOD fuse is ok, check fuse #13 10amp in the interior fuse box. If it's ok or doesn't resolve the problem continue to check all of the fuses in the PDC under the hood and interior fuse box within the vehicle. Make sure the ignition is in the off position when checking the fuses. If this doesn't resolve the issue, further diagnostics will be necessary and hopefully you won't have to replace the cluster.



Follow up from owner - I had already checked and replaced the interior fuse in question prior to requesting help, so I pulled the IOD fuse out, then pushed it back in, like resetting it or disconnecting the battery, and wouldn't you know, the moment I opened my door to check the instrument panel I could hear the door chime. Thank you.


1432. I recently purchased a pre-owned 2003 BE PT with 26k miles. I had a local mechanic inspect the vehicle to determine if needed any work. I was surprised to learn that it didn't have disc brakes on all four wheels. Why does Chrysler use rear drum brakes on the PT, when all disc brakes provide a more effective braking system? – Lee Ann, from Alabama.

It is not uncommon in the automotive industry. Some manufacturers still use drum brakes instead of the disc brakes because the drums are lighter and have less friction when not applied - both important for mileage. They're especially popular on light trucks and smaller FWD cars (like the PT) on the rear axle, because these vehicles have a heavy forward weight bias and don't need rear brakes that are as effective as the front ones. On the PT the standard front disc brakes handle approximately 70% of the braking power for the vehicle while the standard rear drum brakes handle the remainder. On the PT four-wheel disc brakes are optional equipment. On the GT Turbo four-wheel disc brakes are standard equipment


1433. I just purchased a pre-owned 2005 PT Convertible with 16.5k miles. I noticed that the air bag light on the dash was not coming on. I checked the fuse box under the dash and found that the collision shop had not replaced the two 10amp fuses for the air bags after they replaced the air bags. Can I plug new fuses in with out any test? – Dom, from New York.

It is standard procedure to test the airbag (restraint) system with a DRB scan tool after maintenance or repair. If the fuses are missing, that suggests that the system may not have been tested. I would contact the repair shop and verify exactly what was done, if they tested the system and what were the results. When maintenance is performed on the system, it is standard procedure to disconnect the negative battery cable (as part of the procedure) to disarm the restraint system; fuses are not normally removed. I would not attempt to install the fuses until I contacted the shop. If the airbag warning lamp either fails to light, or goes on and stays on, there is a system malfunction.


1434. I have a 2005 BEPT with 2500 miles. I purchased 4 chrome door lock pulls to "spruce up" the inside of my PT, but was not able to remove the existing gray pulls. I went to local dealer and they stated that they are almost certain the pulls are an integral part of the lock mechanism. What is your experience? I don't want to "wrench them off only to find that I've stripped them. Thanks for your comments. – Norm, from Montana.

On earlier model year PT's the door lock pulls simply unscrew. Once loose, they can be pulled through the top of the door trim panel. Some owners have indicated that they can be a tight fit and elected to remove the door trim panels and pull them through the bottom of the panel rather than chancing enlarging the trim panel hole. Note that the P/N is different over the model years, which indicates a change of some type. Although the P/N for the 2001 and 2005 model years are identical, we haven't had owner feedback on the 05 model years, therefore be careful if you attempt to unscrew it. It may be a good idea to remove one door trim panel to make sure that they are actually threaded on, and not one piece, before attempting removal. Instructions for removing the panels are available in the Pit area if you need them.

Knob and Push Rod, Door Latch

2001 - RH44 MF1AC
2002 - RH42 MF1AB
2003 - RH42 MF1AB
2004 - RH44 MF1AC
2005 - RH44 MF1AC


1435. I just bought a lightly damaged 2003 BE PT with 41.6k miles. It has no key, and I need 3. Can I have the keys made from the ignition lock or do I need to order 3 keys because of a chip or so? Thanks for your help. – Ronald, from Curacao.

The Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS) in the PT prevents unauthorized operation of the vehicle by disabling the engine (within 2 seconds) when using an invalid key to start the vehicle. Each key utilizes a vehicle specific embedded transponder chip, which is programmed to the SKIS. A blank key can be cut to fit the ignition lock cylinder however it must be programmed to the SKIM by the dealer before it can be utilized.


1436. I have a 2003 GT (HO) PT with 21k miles. I have noticed recently (after the last oil changed) that when I am stopped, I get a significant smell of exhaust inside the vehicle through the vents. Whether the car is warm or cold, in garage or at a stop light, as soon as I'm stopped, there's the smell. Since it is an exhaust smell I'm concerned, obviously. Do you know what might be causing this? Thanks. – Terry, from North Carolina.

If the issue started after the oil change it's possible that the tech spilled oil on the engine or exhaust system, which is what you smell when the vehicle has been driven and is standing still. Start your inspection in the engine bay – it takes very little oil to create a noticeable odor. While you're in the engine bay see if there is anything else that appears to out of place since the work was completed.


1437. I have a 2002 LE PT with 46k miles. Every now and then when I try to start my cruiser, I turn the key and all the instruments light up, but there is no starter noise. I move the auto shifter back and forth and it starts. I have replaced the battery and I know the cables are tight. – Keith, from Tennessee.

Intermittent issues can be very difficult to diagnose. There are several conditions that can cause the starter not to engage.

Given that the issue seems to be resolved by shifting back and fourth I would look at the Park/neutral position switch (auto-transmission) first to determine if it's faulty or misadjusted. The SM manual provides a procedure to test this feature, or it's available through the Pit area on the site if you don't have access to a manual.


1438. I have a 2001 LE PT with 51k miles. I purchased new brake pads in 1-05 from the dealer and now after 10k miles they are squealing. I have taken the PT back to the dealer three times now and paid them an additional $150 and the brakes still squeal. They have resurfaced them, rotated the rotors, and applied anti squeal spray to them. Any ideas? Thanks. – Marjean, from Georgia.

Brake squeal is really a high frequency vibration. In disc brakes, it can be caused by vibrations between the pads and rotors, the pads and calipers, or the calipers and their mounts. Most of the time this issue can resolved by resurfacing the rotors, applying a non-directional finish to the rotors after resurfacing, installing new pads and pad shims, or applying brake grease or noise compound to the backs of the pads.

In this instance it would be helpful to verify exactly which replacement pads the dealer installed. Most dealers replace the OE brake pads that initially came with the PT with their value line pads. Both the OE pads and value line pads are manufactured by Wagner for Chrysler however the value line pads are a grade below the OE pads in quality. And the OE semi-metallic pads are not the best to begin with; although they provide good braking power, they are noisy, not very durable and create a good bit of unsightly brake dust. (Semi-metallic pads are typically the ones that cause the most noise problems because they're harder than non-asbestos organic (NAO) pads. Their high metallic content often makes them squeal when metal rubs against metal.)

The value line pads are less expensive than the OE pads, but also less durable, make more noise and will need earlier replacement than the OE pads. Most owners switch to higher quality aftermarket pads when they require pad replacement, however DC dealers will not install aftermarket products. The only option an owner has when dealing with the dealership is the OE or value line pads. Upon request, most independent and chain automotive repair centers will install aftermarket pads. In addition, many owners who posses average DIY automotive skills, handle this own their own. Most upper end application specific aftermarket pads are quiet, dust free and have a much longer life than the OE pads originally installed on the PT. Review this section in the tech library, or our brake system and pad recommendation guide in the Pit area for more information.


1439. I have a 2001 BE PT with 60k miles. After the car is warmed up and idling in gear, every 20 seconds or so it will lurch a single time. The rest of the time it seems to run normal although I have the perception that it is idling slightly rough and hesitating slightly when going from a stop. It doesn't lurch when it is in neutral. MPG may have decreased slightly. It ran great after I replaced the plugs, but I drive 1000 miles a week commuting (mostly highway miles). I'm thinking the EGR valve, or transmission shudder? It's pretty inconvenient to get to the dealer, so I'd like your opinion before making an appointment. Thanks. – Kirk, from Pennsylvania.

The EGR is a possibility, but I would look at the plugs and wires first, which are a common source of rough idle on the PT. You can easily check the gap on 1 and 4 without removing the upper intake manifold. If it is excessive try gapping the plugs to .042 and replace the OE ignition wires with better quality Mopar or aftermarket wires. The hesitation/lurching may be the transaxle, but it is more likely related to the engine and not noticeable until the engine is under load. A dirty fuel injector or carbon buildup on the valves can cause a similar effect, and also contribute to rough idle and decreased MPG. See the plug and aftermarket wire recommendation guides in the Pit area.

Follow up, from owner - I replaced the ignition wires and re-gapped the AC/Delco Rapid Fire 5's (couldn't get the Champions and didn't want to wait) and the PT is running normally again. I threw a bottle of injector cleaner in too. Thanks for your help.


1440. I have a TE PT with 82k miles. The dash light for the water temperature gauge is not working. I would like to know how you replace the bulb. – David, from West Virginia.

According the service manual the gauge illumination (5, or 6 w/tachometer) bulbs are replaceable. You can purchase replacements through your local DC dealer parts department. Verify the part and P/N L000 PC74. In order to access the bulbs the instrument cluster and bezel must be removed. The IC requires special handling therefore we recommend that you have access to a service guide for this repair. You'll also find one in the Pit area.


1441. I have a 2002 BE PT with 34k miles. My lighter no longer works; therefore I can not charge my cell phone in the car and any other device I would use. How do I take the old one out? – Anne, from California.

The cigar lighter receptacle is installed in the instrument panel accessory switch bezel, which is located near the bottom of the instrument panel center stack area, below the radio. This power outlet has a constant 12 volt battery feed. The cigar lighter receptacle is serviced with the accessory switch bezel and if defective, the entire switch bezel must be replaced. The plastic cap and the knob and heating element unit are available for service replacement. You can order the accessory switch bezel through your local DC dealer. If you decide to replace on your own, guides are available on the site. The instrument panel center bezel must first be removed before you can access the accessory switch bezel - not difficult with instructions.

Reference 1
Reference 2


1442. I have a 2005 BE PT Convertible with 21k miles. When the overnight temperature goes below freezing and I have go to work the following morning I have to enter through the trunk and crawl up to the driver seat to get into my car. The Smart Windows won't go down because they freeze shut (like any window would). I can't get into my car unless I pull the window out of its grove and slam it back which leaves a bow in the outside of the window. And at that point, I can't get it back into the grove where it normally resides. How can I solve this? Warm water, and spray on deicers do not work. – James, from Kentucky.

Yours is the first issue of this type that has been reported with the convertible. It is difficult to know if this issue is directly related to the cold weather or simply a component that is failing because of extreme weather conditions, without further diagnostics. There was a TSB issued by DC (6-30-05) on some 2005 model year PT convertibles for “inoperative power windows (one or both sides) and possibly the power convertible top, which involves flash reprogramming the Smart Glass Module (SGM), or on some vehicles replacing the front window regulator/SGM assemblies.” In each door of the convertible there is a window regulator module directly connected to each of the front door window regulator motors. The modules control window motor operation and smart glass functions. The driver window module controls the convertible top operations. A copy of the TSB's are available in the Pit area on the site, however your PT is under warranty therefore the dealer should be your next stop. (A 2nd TSB was issued in March06 for this issue which affects 2005-06 Convertibles.)


1443. I have a 2001 LE PT with 60k miles. After changing the plugs and installing new upper intake gaskets, I am now receiving a DTC P0108. I checked to make sure all of the hoses were reconnected, all of the sensors are plugged in, the EGR line is hooked up and manifold is torqued to spec. After all of that, I tried to start the motor and it would start but immediately die after a couple of tries, I added gas slowly until it would stay running when I started it. It finally would idle by itself. I took it for a test run and upon hard acceleration it would hesitate then surge until I let off and then it would smooth out. I can slowly accelerate with no problem. Can the sensor need replacing or am I totally missing something? - Edmond, from Illinois.

P0108 Map Sensor Voltage Too High - MAP sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.

There are several potential causes for this DTC, however the most obvious place to begin would be to check the MAP sensor. If you're following procedure outlined in the OE service manual, the MAP sensor is disconnected during the plug change. Make sure it is reconnected correctly and or damaged. The MAP sensor measures the air pressure in the manifold. I'm told you can test it; if the PT won't start, with the ignition key in the off position, simply unplug the electrical connection from the MAP sensor. If the vehicle starts, you have faulty sensor or connection.

Other potential causes for DTC P0108 are:

Map Sensor Voltage Above 4.9 Volts
(K1) Map Signal Circuit Shorted To (K7) 5 Volt Supply Circuit
(K1) Map Signal Circuit Shorted To Battery Voltage
Map Sensor Internal Failure
(K1) Map Signal Circuit Open
(K4) Sensor Ground Circuit Open

A professional DRB scan tool would normally be required to troubleshoot these remaining potential causes.

 Follow up from owner - Thank you for your help. The error message was due to a faulty sensor. I checked the connection to the sensor to make sure it was connected properly. As I disconnected it I noticed bared conductors at the top of the narrow neck between the male plug portion of the sensor and the main body. I decided to remove the sensor and inspect it more closely under better lighting. I wiggled the plug and the main body and it fell into two pieces. It appeared to have been cracked for some time as the old portion of the break was much darker than the light gray of the piece that just came apart. I more than likely aggravated the condition of the sensor by removing the connection while changing the plugs. Installed a new sensor and the cruiser is running great


1444. I have a 2002 LE PT with 18k miles. My driver side power seat does not work. I changed the fuse and it blew. I took it to the dealer and they determined that the motor was grounded. The dealer said that I needed a new seat to the tune of $800.00. Does this make sense? – Robert, from Michigan.

The motor is part of the of the power seat track assembly. The power seat track is shown as part of the seat in the IPB. If you can't get along without it, a less expensive approach might be to check with salvage yards in your area for a replacement. According to the service guide the seat track assembly can be removed from the seat.


1445. I have a 2002 BE PT with 40k miles. I turned on A/C yesterday and it doesn't blow cold air. I was wondering if I just need to charge the Freon and if I could do it myself because I know a lot of Auto part stores sell the kits. Does the PT take the R-134a Freon? – Kristin, from Georgia.

We recommend that you have the A/C system serviced by a professional. Most vehicles that were manufactured before 1994 usually contain CFC-12 (R-12), a chemical that has been phased out of production because it depletes the stratospheric ozone layer that protects the earth against harmful ultraviolet radiation. Newer vehicles, after 1994, use HFC-134a (R-134a), which is less damaging to the atmosphere. The PT utilizes R-134a refrigerant, but it does not have or use a sight glass to check or charge the system. Therefore it is not possible to determine the amount of (R-134a) charge in the system. In order to fill or charge the system the existing refrigerant must be completely evacuated from the system, than refilled to the correct capacity using a suitable charging station, refrigerant recovery machine or a manifold gauge set with vacuum pump and refrigerant recovery equipment. The maximum capacity of refrigerant that the system holds is 851 grams (1.875 lbs.). Overcharging the refrigerant system can cause excessive compressor head pressure which can cause noise and system failure. The A/C system is closed loop – if the refrigerant level is low, recharging may provide a temporary solution, but a permanent fix will require finding and repairing the leak. Finding leaks is not difficult with the aid of high-tech leak detection tools; most shops use either a "sniffer" or a special dye that shows up under blacklight. If the refrigerant level is OK, a “no cold air condition” can also be attributed to a loose or broken drive belt, inoperative compressor or slipping compressor clutch, defective expansion valve, clogged expansion valve, receiver-drier or liquid refrigerant line, or blown fuse.


1446. I have a 2004 GT PT with 31k miles. With cars I've owned in the past, I could find the build sheet some where under the seats. Does the Cruiser have a build sheet? Thank you. –Charles, from California.

I'm afraid that DC doesn't provide one with the PT, however your local dealer can easily run your VIN and provide you with computer printout of all the options and equipment installed at the factory


1447. I have a 2003 GT (HO) PT with 12k miles and a stage 1 upgrade. I will be replacing the OE aluminum manifold with the newly designed plastic intake manifold used on the 2005-2006 models; will it really add 6-8 HP? If so, can only the top portion be changed? It appears that it will bolt perfectly to the lower old OE manifold for a very quick and easy modification. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. – Larry, from Arizona.

ThumbnailLast year a plastic intake manifold was introduced for use on (some 2005) and 2006 model year GT Turbo Cruisers. Constructed from DuPont(TM) Zytel(R) nylon 6/6 in close partnership with Chrysler and Siemens VDO, the manifold replaces the original aluminum construction design utilized on earlier model year GT Turbo's.

The Chrysler GT Cruiser plastic intake manifold is the market's first mass-produced plastic manifold for a turbocharger application. By moving away from the original aluminum construction to a design using a vibration-welding grade of DuPont(TM) Zytel(R) nylon, the weight was reduced by 10 pounds.

A modification kit has been introduced by Haynes Speed Shop that allows 2003-2004 GT Turbo owners to replace their OE aluminum manifolds with the newly designed plastic manifolds. The kit includes the upper/lower intake manifolds and hardware (10 bolts) for approximately $95.

For an additional $30, you can order a modesty cover, which mates with the top of the upper intake for a finished appearance. According M. Triffon, an owner who has installed the manifold, and knows a DC insider, the addition of the cover introduces a few undesirable effects. The NVM (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) foam insulation, which is included with the cover and sandwiched between the cover and upper intake during the installation of the cover, significantly increases under hood temperatures. In addition to heating up the intake and air in it, it also leaves little clearance for the air to flow over top and down through the turbo. He strongly suggests removing the cover and foam insulation while driving, and utilizing the cover only at car shows.

Kit W/O Cover
Modesty Cover


There is some debate regarding the performance aspect of the new manifold. I'll briefly outline what I discovered and let you form your own opinion.

Tommy Thrift, of Haynes Speed Shop, stated that the design engineer indicated that owners can expect to see a gain of up to 8hp. The advantages of using the plastic molding process over the aluminum casting process are twofold:
  1. The new process allows the top and bottom halves of the manifolds to be molded separately, which results in a perfectly smooth interior that would be cost prohibitive to duplicate on an aluminum manifold, which is cast in one piece.

  2. And more importantly, it allows the manufacturer to insert an air foil or diverter into the plenum before the lower and upper halves are vibration-welded together, which was not possible with the earlier aluminum casting process. The use of a diverter or air flow, allows a balanced flow of air to enter all cylinders. Unlike, the aluminum manifolds utilized on previous GT model years, where the deviation in air flow between each cylinder was as much as 10%, the new manifold reduces this deviation to 1%, which in turn enhances performance.
Other sources suggest that the difference in engine (hp) specifications between model years, as noted in the table below, is evidence that the new manifold provides additional hp.

2.4L High Output Turbo Engine HP Specifications

Model Year

Manifold Design

HP Specification













It is true that the 2006 model year High Output Turbo engine offers a 10hp increase in power over the previous year, however there is no documentation that I can find that suggests the increase is derived specifically from the new manifold. Press releases by Siemens VDO and SEMA make no mention of potential increases in hp; only the reduction in weight and decrease in manufacturing cost, compared with the OE aluminum design. And there is no mention of the new manifold in the 2006 model year literature and or press kits provided by DC.

Some GT's owners have reported a slight to noticeable increase in performance while others report no noticeable change. However, in all cases feedback was based upon perception, which can be subjective and unreliable. One owner indicated that on a stock GT, the increase may be slight, but as modifications (stage 1 upgrade, blow off valve, free flow exhaust system, etc.) are added, it could serve as a foundation for more power and provide exponential gains.

Currently, we are not aware of any before and after Dyno tests conducted on a stock GT to support or negate the suggested hp increase in performance. Regardless of anyone's opinion, if you keep in mind that it's only a 4% overall increase in hp, you probably won't be disappointed.


It is reported that the installation is fairly straightforward for owners with above average DIY automotive skills/experience. The installation involves removing both the OE upper and lower aluminum intake manifold, replacing them with the plastic manifold, and repositioning the oil dip stick, or purchasing an inexpensive dip stick upgrade. As part of the process, the cooling system must be partially drained to access the coolant outlet connector, and the fuel system pressure must be released in order to disconnect the fuel supply line at the fuel rail assembly.

The new upper and lower manifolds can not be intermixed with the older upper and lower aluminum manifolds; they must be used as a set.

After the manifold swap is completed plugs changes are a little more work. A universal socket will eliminate the need to remove the upper manifold to access the plugs.

Additional Resources

Siemens VDO Press Release (PDF)
OE Upper and Lower Intake Manifold Removal Guide
OE Cooling System Guide
OE Fuel Injection Guide


1448. I have a 2003 CE PT (2.2L Diesel) with 22k miles. My car broke down again today, 3rd time in 15k miles. I bought it from a Chrysler dealer in Canterbury Kent UK with 8k miles. Each time it breaks down the dealer gives me a courtesy car and repairs my car. The problem (allegedly) is the clutch slave cylinder, housed in the gearbox. They say this is a common fault, but certainly not every 3.5k. Experience suggests they have buggered up the seal face/piston or just botched the repair each time. Although I love the car and it has been superb family transportation for me and my family (wife and 3 children). I fear once it is out of warranty (6 months) I will be left with a car that is impossible to sell and or costly to repair. Please advise. – Aidy, from the UK.

We can't offer much help here; the clutch slave cylinder utilized in the export diesel PT is completely different (A concentric design, having all components fixed about the same axis.) than the one used in the domestic PT here in the U.S. Based upon the feedback we have received during the last 3 years the failure rate on the domestic model is very low. The replacement procedure on the diesel is much more involved and requires the removal of the transaxle to access the slave cylinder, which is mounted to the inside of the clutch bellhousing.

If you're not confident in the dealers ability to replace the SC correctly and the same dealer has repeatedly (unsuccessfully) repaired the vehicle it might be time to obtain a second opinion at another dealership if that is an option.


1449. I have a 2003 BE PT with 44k miles. A couple of months ago I began to hear a chirping sound at startup which went away after several minutes. Eventually you could hear the noise even after running for a while. I took it to Firestone, thinking the belt was going bad. They said they put belt dressing on and the noise was still there, then they said they lubricated the water pump pulley and the noise disappeared. They told me the water pump needs to be replaced. The car does not overheat, but the noise has not returned during the last two days. What are your thoughts on this? Should I have the pump replaced? Are there any other symptoms to look for? I have not had any leaks that I can see. Thanks. – Craig, from Ohio.

Are you sure they meant the water pump? On the 2.4L engine the water pump is gear driven (does not have a pulley). The accessory drive belts drive the power steering pump, A/C compressor and alternator.

The water pump on the export 2.2L turbo diesel engine has a pulley and is belt driven.

With regard to the water pump, it's a good deal of work to replace since the timing belt must be removed to access the pump. The service manual offers these inspection tips to determine if replacement is necessary.

Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of these defects:

1. Cracks or damage on the body.
2. Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by wet coolant traces on the pump body.
3. Loose or rough turning bearing.
4. Impeller rubs either the pump body or the engine block.
5. Impeller loose or damaged.
6. Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.

Follow up from owner - I took my car to the dealer who charged me $150 to replace the belts, problem solved. What is up with Firestone?

Follow up from PTDIY -To be fair, sometimes a borderline belt can be difficult to spot unless it's removed from the vehicle. Most repair facilities won't do this unless they are reasonably confident the belt is at fault because of the labor involved. However, you have to wonder what they were thinking with regard to the pulley and water pump. Occasionally you have to bite the bullet and take the vehicle to the dealer. In most instances they are familiar with the nuances of the vehicle and can diagnose an issue fairly accurately. Incidentally, for future reference the SM clearly states “do not use any type of belt dressing or restorer on the Poly-V drive belts.” See the Accessory Belt guide for the inspection and replacement procedure.


1450. I have a 2002 LE PT with 46k miles with automatic transmission. I'm having a problem when I come to a stop, the car sometimes violently "jumps" or surges forward. I notice the problem slightly when driving in town at low speeds and coming to a stop, but it is severe when highway driving and then needing to slow to a stop. The PT has been checked with a scan tool and everything came back ok. Most recently the transmission was leaking and the dealer replaced the solenoid. I think it appears worse since they worked on the transmission. Thanks in advance for any help. – John, from Kansas.

A lurching forward "might" be the transmission shifting into low gear while you are already stopped. This indicates a serious transmission failure. It has not been a common issue reported by other owners.


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