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The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ask Motor-Mike and Ed.

 

Part Forty Five Q&A 1101 - 1125

1101. I have a 2004 GT (HO) PT with 4300 miles. I was curious if it would be possible to add a siren to the OE security system? The OE horn is not very effective at drawing attention, especially since the later model years only offer a single note horn. If possible, how would I go about connecting the siren? Thank you. - Mike, from New York.

Adding a siren is relatively simple, but without extensive control circuits, it will sound anytime you honk the horn. If you have some experience in this area, install a siren with a relay to drive it. Use the horn power lead to signal the siren relay. Do not tie the siren directly to the horn lead, as the circuit and wiring is not designed for the extra load.

 

1102. I have a 2001 LE PT with 40k miles. After I changed the spark plugs, I left the EGR tube partially connected to manifold cover assembly (I planned to secure it later when the missing bolt was found.) and the PT ran fine. A few days later, I removed the manifold cover with the intent of finalizing this issue, but was unable to reattach the EGR tube. But after the replacement of the manifold cover, at idle, the car revs high RPM, cycling up and down every second. I suspect I dislodged a sensor or hose when I attempted the repair, but the vehicle self-tests do not yield a fault. What gives? Thanks for your help. - Sean, from Florida.

An EGR that's not sealed will yield a huge vacuum leak that will result in a high and erratic idle. The EGR is a hole directly into the intake manifold. It must be fastened correctly.

 

1103. We have a 2001 BE PT with 80k miles. The radio worked normally until one day it wouldn't turn on at all. The clock display is blank and even with the radio in the off position the lights on the EQ blink repeatedly in a bright-dim-off sequence. The radio, clock, tape, and CD player do not work. I checked the fuse and it's good. The alternator seems to be charging, but I haven't taken it to be checked. - Clyde, from Texas.

I've been through pages 117-140 of the 2001 body diagnostic manual. There are a dozen, or more diagnostic codes for the audio system, which must be read with a professional scanner. Only a pro scan tool can access the radio codes buried in the body control module. If you have verified that power is supplied to the radio (not just looking at fuses, but measuring the voltage at the rear of the radio connectors), then the radio is likely defective. There are several power leads to the radio. You will need the wiring schematic to verify all of the signals. If the radio requires replacement you may want to consider looking on E-bay. Owners dump their radios there when they upgrade to aftermarket components, and they are less expensive than purchasing through the dealer. Make sure you purchase one that is suitable for your model year, the connectors changed on 2002 models and later. You'll find installation guides and connector information in the Pit area if you decide to DIY.

 

1104. I have a 2002 LE PT with 20k miles. I have taken my PT to the dealer twice with the same rear brake grinding issue. I took it in on 12/03 for rear brake grinding and the service advisor told me that it was due to excessive brake dust. I took it back on 10/04 for the same problem - rear brake grinding. They said there was nothing that they could do about the grinding, other than just continuing to just clean the excessive brake dust off. Does this sound right? The grinding sound is constant when coming to a stop. Your help would be very helpful. - Jesse, from Michigan.

I am assuming that you are talking about the standard rear drum brakes, and not the optional rear disc brakes. I have done a lot of rear brake drum squeal testing over the last 2 years on about 6 PT's. The cure has been found in new drums, which are expensive. The metallurgy of the Mexican made drums is noise prone. The top-shelf Canadian drums are quiet. The shoes and hardware are fine, but the drums should stop the noise. I use NAPA 640-1453 drums. You'll find a list of suggested additional aftermarket brake components in the Pit area.

 

1105. I have a 2001 LE PT with 70k miles. The engine has started running roughly, periodically for a few seconds when the A/C is running. Also, sometimes when I start the car and turn the A/C on, it blows hot air and then starts blowing cold air after I start driving. Don't know if these two things are related or not. - Jan, from Nevada.

The hot air is from the engine heating up the plastic ductwork and the air intake drawing from the engine bay. It cools after the evaporator coils have begun to circulate the Freon in the AC system. This can take a minute. Try turning the air on the lowest fan speed for a half minute prior to setting it at full blast. The engine rpm should increase to compensate for the additional engine load from the AC compressor. If it's not, there may be a fault in the idle speed control system. The AC sensor tells the PCM to raise the idle, the PCM tells the ISC, and then the ISC is supposed to allow more air to bypass the throttle plate. A fault in any part of that circuit can cause the engine to run roughly at low rpm. It could also simply need a tune-up.

 

1106. I have a 2003 GT (HO) PT with 10 k miles. I have purchased a mechanical turbo boost gauge. Can you tell me where I can tee it into the system? - Orville, from Pennsylvania.

Unfortunately, we haven't had much feedback on the process. You'll find everything we have on that process here.

Your best bet for additional help would be to check the PT Turbo specific forums, and or the following web sites.

Bob Stockum

John Abella

I hope you'll consider providing us with your solution, I'm sure it would be of interest to other PT owners.

 

1107. I have a 2004 BE PT with 426 miles. Can I add a replacement rear view mirror with temperature/compass and maybe map lights, or the over head console? Is the wiring already there? I don't want to damage anything, but if I can just run a battery and ground leads for the display, would that be ok? I just purchased this vehicle last week and I'm still learning. Thanks in advance. - Joe, from Pennsylvania.

With early model years we could confidently say that the wiring/connectors were in place under the headliner, however some owners with late (2003 and forward) model year PT's have reported that various wiring and or connectors for optional features have been absent on some editions. We believe that DC has introduced a number of subtle cost-cutting measures, which include the elimination of some features and waste since the initial model year PT's. Regrettably, you will have to physically access the area to check the availability of the wiring. If it is not present, one solution would be to run an appropriate sized wire from a switched ignition source up the A-pillar to the center of the headliner. You would also need to install the sensor for the temperature reading. You will find related OE guides and wiring schematics in the Pit area on the site to help you with these tasks.

Were not aware of any owners who have added an aftermarket rear view mirror with temp/compass and map lights, so we can't offer you advice/help there. You would still need to run a power and ground connection, and probably install a sensor for the temperature reading. That would probably be doable, although we would not recommend a direct hook up to the battery, without going through a suitable fused circuit.

You'll find more information on the overhead console here:

 

1108. I have a 2002 LE PT with 21.5k miles. As I accelerate the red brake indicator light turns on. While reviewing some of the other Q&A's I see that it may be "low brake fluid, from a leak". I brought my PT in for servicing and they couldn't find a leak, and indicated that it must be brake pad wear. They charged me $5.24 for the fluid and a $1.98 hazardous material fee. Is this cool or is it bunk? - John, from Wisconsin.

That is correct, the fluid can be low because you have a leak, or because your brake pads are worn or wearing out. As the pads wear, more fluid is taken into the system. That lowers the fluid in the reservoir and trips the low brake fluid indicator (brake) light. If the light only comes on intermittently, you may have some life left in the pads, however as the pads continue to wear the light will stay on all of the time. As a precaution, have the shop check the condition of the pads. You'll find a good deal of information within the Pit area on the pad replacement procedure and recommended aftermarket pads, which provide longer life and quieter service than the OE pads. Review the Top 10 Issues List also.

 

1109. I have a 2001 LE PT with 41k miles. I am in the process of installing an alternating rear flasher on my taillights. The wires for the left and right brake light are tan/white. I need to know the color of the main power wire for the brake lights? - Trasen, from Oklahoma.

The main power wire is white with a tan stripe for all brake lamps. The ground lead is black. The white/tan wire leaves the brake lamp switch under the dash and goes all the way to the rear of the PT where it splices into each bulb. A $0.99 12v test light would come in handy for testing. If you need a wiring schematic, they are available through the Pit area on the site.

 

1110. I have a 2003 TE PT with 11.5k miles. I just installed a Revel Tower Strut bar on my PT and it fits up against the MAP sensor connector. Revel claims that it works fine on their 2001 and 2002 model year PT's. I know that the intake manifold on the 2001 and 2002 model year PT's is different than on the 2003 and up PT's, but do not know if the height is different, especially in the MAP sensor area. I have less than .005 clearance between the bar and the connector. Revel claims that the engine mounts are thicker, but I think the problem is the increased height of the intake manifold. I would appreciate any help you can give me in this matter or tell me who I can contact at Chrysler to find out. - Harvey, from Ohio.

I compared the P/N's on the 2002 and 2003 model year upper intake manifolds and they appear to be different (P/N's 2002 -4777 855AD, 2003 - 4884 437AA), however the lower intake manifold on both model years is identical (4777 871AC). Unfortunately, the service manual does not address the differences or provide any specifications for the parts, other than torque requirements.

You will find contact information for DC on the PT Information page in the Pit area. Based upon our numerous emails to DC I can tell you that you'll probably be disappointed by their response. They usually refer requests for information of this kind to a local dealer.

If you look through the Strut Tower guides in the Pit area you'll note that this fit issue has been a problem with a few manufacturers. It is the responsibility of the manufacturer to carefully design and test their products before they market them to consumers. If Revel has indicated that their strut bar fits the 2003 PT, they are obligated to provide support to resolve the issue, or reimburse you for the purchase. Personally, if it were I, I would return it and find one that fits correctly. Owners have reported damaging the MAP sensor with ill-fitting strut bars. In one instance it affected the PCM, which turned into an expensive fix for the owner.

 

1111. I have a 2002 BE PT with 26k miles. The airbag indicator light in the instrument cluster comes on intermittently. It will go off for a period of time (days or weeks) than come on again. It seems to be sensitive to the weather - when it gets colder (below 50), the light is more often off than on. Could this be a short or a ground fault? Where would I look - where would I start? Thanks. - Craig, from Illinois.

As I'm sure you know, an airbag light indicates a malfunction somewhere in the occupant restraint system. It's possible that it could be an open or short, but it could also be a failing restraint system component or instrument cluster issue. We strongly suggest that you have safety-related issues like this handled by the dealer. If you insist on checking it out, you will find an OE Restraint System guide in the Pit area on the site. Occupant Restraint System schematics are also available through that area. We also have a 2005 Body Diagnostics manual, which provides the airbag system indicator open/short test procedure, however you would need a DRB scan tool to complete the procedure.

 

1112. I have a 2004 GT (HO) PT with 450 miles. After about a half mile of driving I can hear buzzing noise from the rear of car. I can hear it over idling motor sounds. Noise can be heard as well from outside of car. It seems to be from fuel system. I went to service, but they couldn't do anything, the same noise could be heard from a new and not yet driven PT also. They said that the noise is from the fuel odor or vapor collecting system. Have you heard anything like this, and do you have any solution for me? - Jouko, from Finland.

Your description of the issue sounds like the fuel pump. The fuel pump is an electric motor mounting inside the fuel tank at the rear of the car. Most vehicles produced in the last 15 years have this design. Any electric motor makes noise. The fuel pump can be heard running in many cars. It's as normal as hearing the blower fan when you turn the heater on.

Follow up from owner - Owner indicated that the sound he heard was something other than the fuel pump motor.

 

1113. I have a 2001 LE PT with 150k miles. I noticed the following two readouts flashing on the odometer: "No fuse" and "No DRL". I ran both vehicle self-tests and no faults were indicated. I checked the IOD fuse with VOM meter and all was OK. I checked the 40A door-lock fuse it was also OK. This is a Canadian car and I do not know where the DRL module is, so I have not checked it. Please advise where I can find it? While checking the fuse I saw the + battery was covered in corrosion. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the connector. This problem has also affected the door locks, radio, mirrors and keyless entry. Any advice to resolve this would be appreciated. Thanks. - Dave, from Canada.

The DRL module is part of the instrument cluster/body control module. Power to all those systems come from several fuses, but share a common ground point. The ground (G-200) is located center rear of the instrument panel. The IOD fuse is the only one that will cause the cluster to display "no fuse". It would seem that the cluster has failed, a ground is open, or a power circuit isn't reaching the destination.

 

1114. I have a 2003 LE PT and have had two experiences where the lower transmission rubber hose has worn (from the screw clamp) and leaked all of the transmission fluid. I trimmed the worn end and reattached the tube in both instances to repair the issue. Is this problem due to engine vibration? Thanks. - Wayne, from California.

This is the first time an owner has reported an issue like this. You might want to have the dealer check it out for you if it has happened repeatedly.

 

1115. I have a 2004 BE PT with 2k miles. I had a new Trenz vertical billet grill installed on my new PT. I was going to remove the front license plate bracket, but found 4 big holes underneath the bracket where it attached to the bumper. They appeared to be drilled from the inside of the bumper - a lip of metal is sticking out from each hole. Front tags are not required in my state; who installed the bracket, Chrysler or the dealer? What can I do about this? What is the chance of getting Chrysler to replace the bumper? - Richard, from South Carolina.

Unless the customer directs them not to, the dealer normally installs the tag bracket while prepping the vehicle for delivery to the customer. It's unlikely that DC will replace it; the bracket holes are unsightly, but not considered a defect. Review the information here for additional suggestions.

 

1116. I have a 2001 LE with 4800 miles. The vehicle was involved in an accident in 2002, which damaged the left front, from the top of the fender to the front, and pushed the left front strut inwards a bit. Repairs on the vehicle began in September 2004, two and a half years after the accident. During this period, the vehicle was never started. The left fender, input/output sensors and solenoid switch were replaced. Now that the vehicle is repaired, it cranks, but does not start. All other functions seem OK! A mechanic from the U.S. has tested all the harnesses, fuses, wires to the SKIM and even the crank and cam sensors, but the vehicle still won't start. He thinks that either the PCM is not responding or the vehicle does not recognize the key. The sentry light on the dash does not stay on, nor does the engine start and then shut down. Yesterday we performed a vehicle self-test, which resulted in the battery light, engine oil and the sentry light comes on. Then the battery light and the sentry light went off leaving only the engine light. After what seems to be a minute or so, the engine light begins to flash, up to eleven (11) times, in this sequence: 1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,11. The first ten (10) flashes of the engine light appear in consistent intervals of time, but the eleventh flash rushes after the tenth flash and is of a shorter duration. A mechanic/ friend in the States has suggested that I may have to ship the PCM to him for reflash by a Chrysler dealer or approved mechanic. Any assistance that you can give will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. - Brian, from Saint Lucia, in the Caribbean.

Four things are required for an engine to run; air, compression, spark and fuel. We can be sure that air and compression are in abundance. We need to know if it's getting spark and fuel. You need to have the fuel pressure and volume tested. An ignition tester is needed to see if the plugs are getting spark.

There will not be any codes to read from the PCM without a scanner, since it hasn't been driven to run through the emissions self-tests.

 

1117. I have a 2001 LE PT with 40k miles. On wet and muddy roads I've a heavy line of dirt down the side of the car. This obviously is coming off the front tires. Do you know of any fix for this, something that will direct the spray away from the side of the car? Thanks. - Vic, from Oregon.

The OE front molded splashguards cover a very small surface area, which makes them more decorative than functional. Some owners have replaced them with generic flat splashguards that are longer and offer more protection to the lower side body panels from mud and rock chips. You might check with Wyckoff Chrysler online. They carried a Mopar Flat splashguard for the PT at one time. With any generic splashguard it is important to fit them correctly. You want the splashguard to be long enough to protect the body panels, but not so long that they have the potential of getting caught behind the wheel. One owner reported having them cut so long that they caught between the wheel and curb while parked on an incline with the wheels cut towards the curb, and ripped out part of the wheel well as he pulled away.

 

1118. I have a 2003 DC GT (HO), plus Stage 1, with 17k miles. I am wondering; since I live in Florida and it never really gets cold down here, can I remove the thermostat, or replace it with one that runs cooler, say about 170-180, since it seems to run hotter than my regular PT? Thanks for info. - Don, from Florida.

Removing it wouldn't be advisable. Without high cylinder temps, the fuel mixture won't burn completely. This will cause all sorts of driveability problems. The computer will try to compensate for the high O2 readings and it will really screw up power and mileage. Computer controlled cars don't take to old-timer mod's from the 1960's.

No, the PCM expects the coolant to flow at 195F and level off at 210F before the fans come on. Replacing it with anything below that will send the PCM into 'cold enrichment mode' and start dumping more fuel with less air. That means a significant drop in power. The TCM will change the shift points to delay upshifting. This will kill your fuel mileage. Less power and less mpg, added to less complete ignition and increased carbon monoxide emissions... you can see that the engine needs to be as hot as possible for maximum power and lowest emissions.

 

1119. I have a 2003 DC GT (HO) with 20k miles. I change my oil every 2k miles. When I start the engine after each change, it does not knock. As the engine starts to warm up, it starts knocking and continues to do so for an average of 45 minutes running time regardless of if I'm driving or at idle. It doesn't knock at all until you change the oil. I am using Pennzoil 5w30 engine oil with no additives, which is what the local dealer advised, and a K&N oil filter (easier to install and remove). I have tried changing the oil with the engine warm and cold, and it makes no difference. When I change the oil, I remove the drain plug, drain the oil, and remove the old filter. Then I put the new filter in place, replace the drain plug and fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil. When I first start the engine, the engine does not knock. Am I missing something? - Steven, from Tennessee.

It sounds like you're doing everything correctly. This is the first report of this kind that we have received. During the next change you might try pre-filling the filter as much as possible prior to installation. This will minimize the dry startup time. If this doesn't help, you may want to consider having your local dealer take a look while you're still under warranty.

Follow up from owner - The filter goes on sideways on the turbo models, very hard to get to and you have to turn the filter almost completely upside down to get it worked up to where it goes. I also had a 2001 model without turbo and it mounted the same way and the engine had the same knocking noise after changing the oil. It wouldn't concern me as much, if it knocked for a minute after the oil change and then stopped, but that's not what it does.

PT DIY follow up - We haven't heard of or experienced this issue with any PT or GT Cruiser. If the partial prefill on the filter isn't possible you may want to consider having your dealer perform the next change, while it is still under warranty. You can point out the problem.

 

1120. I have a 2003 DC GT (HO) with 20k miles. I have heard that you should not use the auto-stick and shift down, it will break the transmission. Is this true? - Don, from Florida.

The TCM will not allow damage to the transmission, under any circumstances. You may want to verify your source of information.

 

1121. I have a 2001 BE PT with 83k miles. The vehicle was running fine, stopped and filled the tank with gas and drove another 30 minutes on the highway. When I exited and slowed down to idle the engine began running rough. I checked the OBD codes; first one was P1684 (battery disconnected in the last 50 starts). I recently replaced the battery, but it has been started more than 50 times since then. The second code is P0172, which is (1/1 Fuel System Rich. A rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally lean correction factor.). What do I need to do to start testing to repair this situation? - William, from California.

You will need a (DRB) scan tool to clear the battery fault code, it won't clear itself.

Fault code P0172-Fuel System 1/1 Rich will require a good deal more work to pinpoint the problem. The powertrain diagnostic manual lists possible causes as: Good Trip Equal To Zero, O2 Sensor Heater Operation, O2 Sensor, EVAP Purge Solenoid Operation, O2 Signal Circuit, O2 Return Circuit, MAP Sensor Operation, ECT Sensor Operation, Engine Mechanical Problem, Fuel Filter/Pressure, Regulator and PCM. There are several pages of tests in the manual to help determine the cause of the O2 sensor reading overly rich for too long. You will need professional diagnostic tests with a scanner that can read and record the datastream to locate the cause of the fault. Please refrain from throwing parts at it in hopes of a cure. Diagnose the faulty circuit, and repair the cause. If you plan to DIY, test procedures from the 2005 powertrain diagnostic manual are available through the Pit area on the site.

 

1122. We have a 2001 BE PT with 27k miles. The radiator began leaking out of a seam between the composite side tanks and the aluminum core. I suspect it is the gasket. We experienced a previous issue around 12k miles when the thermostat housing started to leak. Both were changed under warranty. Are there similar issues occurring with other PT's? Thanks. - Tom, from Midwest.

This issue has not been a common occurrence. We have received few very reports from owners regarding problems with the OE radiator, and no complaints with the thermostat housing or radiator side tank leaks. You may want to review the information in this section for cooling system issues that have been reported. If you decide to DIY the radiator, you'll find an OE replacement guide in the Pit area on the site.

 

1123. I have a 2001 BE PT with 46k miles. While driving the engine turned off and would not restart. I wiggled some cables, one green cable from, what looks like a pick up coil, and the other from a plug that has three cables that go to the right side of the cylinder head. It turned on, but as soon as I start to drive, it shuts off. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. - Jose, from Puerto Rico.

Follow up from owner - I found the problem, after using the DRB scanner; a cam or crankshaft sensor DTC. I checked the wiring and discovered a broken crankshaft sensor wire. In order to diagnose/repair it I had to remove the entire wiring harness from the PCM and engine. Thanks for your help.

 

1124. I have a 2001 LE PT with 38,000km, which I purchased used about 2 months ago. It been great to own, but when I start the PT in the morning there is a fairly loud whining sound. I took it in and was told that they had to replace the steering fluid and that the problem was fixed, but I still hear the whining sound when I start it up in the morning. I took it back again and was told that it is normal for a PT to sound like this, especially in our colder climate. I still have about 2 months left on the OE warranty. Are they giving me the gears? The sound does go away after about 5 minutes of driving and I haven't experienced any noticeable steering problems. Thanks. - Ron, from Canada.

It could be normal, but then again not. When the vehicle is initially started the steering fluid is cold and the viscosity is heavier. It requires more effort to travel through the system. As the vehicle warms up, the viscosity thins and requires less effort. That being said, I'm sure you have reviewed the Top Ten Issues List in the Pit area regarding the problems associated with the steering system. Based upon past issues, and our inability to diagnose sounds over the net, I would not assume that it is normal until shown otherwise. I would suggest that you compare it to other PT's to see if they make similar sounds. When compared side to side, it should be easy to get your dealership to accept responsibility for the repairs.

 

1125. I have a 2003 GT (HO) PT with 12k miles. During the inspection of the air filter element I noticed that oil had collected in the bottom of the breather housing, probably about 4 tablespoons. I took it to the dealer and they initially thought it might be a problem. After their conversation with Chrysler they said that it was normal for a Turbo. They explained that the PCV shuts down during boost due to loss of vacuum and the extra pressure, which would normally be removed by the PCV out of the crankcase, is leached into the breather housing. I understand the concept, but to vent the engine that way seems unusual for a new vehicle. Is it normal for oil to collect in the breather housing in a Turbo engine? - Franco, New Jersey.

Yes, it's normal. Many owners have installed 'catch cans' to keep the oil out of the air box. You can read more about this in some of the GT forums.

 



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