The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ask Motor-Mike and Ed.
Part Part Forty Four Q&A 1076 - 1100
1076. We have a 2002 LE PT with 85k miles. Yesterday I noticed that the overhead console temperature and compass readout was not functioning - there is no readout, but the courtesy lights still work. Thank you. - Ernie, from Virginia.
If the courtesy lights function, that would rule out the fuse (#13). Check for a miss-positioned step button - try stepping through the different operational modes. There is a STEP button on the console to display the compass / temperature, and can be read in either F° or C°. When the vehicle is first turned ON, you may select to have the overhead console show a blank display, compass / temperature displayed in Fahrenheit or compass / temperature displayed in Celsius. To put the compass / temperature in the F° display, press the STEP button once. To put the compass / temperature in the C° display, press the STEP button twice. A third press of the STEP button will return it to the blank display. If the step button appears to be functioning correctly, but does not resolve the problem, have the system diagnosed by the dealer. If it turns out to be a faulty console, they are not serviceable and must be replaced.
1077. I have a 2002 LE PT with 60k miles. Today, while on the way to the store it ran perfectly, but on the return trip the throttle felt like it was sticking. I would apply the brake, let up and the car would accelerate on it's own. I eventually got the car home and when I put it into park the rpm's went up to over 4000. I shut the engine off and restarted it and had the same result - a 4000 rpm idle. I ran the self-diagnostic test and received no error codes, nor is the check engine light on. I started the car with the hood open, and although the rpm's rise rapidly, the throttle cable never moves. Any help would be appreciated. -
Your description is symptomatic of a large vacuum leak. Inspect the hoses from the intake for a leak.
1078. I have a 2004 TE PT with a low-output turbo engine and 12k miles. I drive my PT all over town for work and I'm racking up the miles quickly. However the brakes don't seem quite up to the task. I do not have 4 wheel disc or ABS options. My question is: is it better to convert rear drums to discs; or put cross drilled and slotted rotors on the front with a medium performance pad? - Rick, from California.
I doubt very much if the brake fluid is boiling inside your calipers. That's the only reason why racers install vented rotors. When the fluid boils, your foot will go all the way to the floor during braking. If your caliper temperature is below 400F, you won't see braking benefits from vented rotors. They are a marketing gimmick.
The rear brakes only do about 30% of the braking during normal stopping. They are split 50/50 only while lightly holding the car at a stop. No one has been able to successfully convert to rear discs. It's not worth even trying. The master cylinder, proportioning valve, ABS controller & circuits, along with the hardware and parking brake system are all different for the PT's with rear disc brakes.
Wyckoff Chrysler carries a rear brake disc conversion kit for the PT, but the description indicates that additional parts are required, which are not included with the kit. It's also non-returnable. You can swap out the OE front pads for aftermarket premium pads, which will provide for longer life, quieter and dust free braking, but they don't offer an increase in stopping power over the OE pads.
1079. I have a 2001 TE PT with 65k miles. I have read all of the previous Q&A's submitted and several could be close to what I am experiencing. The engine will stall while driving and suddenly come back on. All of the electrical systems will remain on. Recently the engine stalled on the interstate and did not restart. I pulled off to the side of the road, stopped put the vehicle in park and cranked the motor over to start it. The motor would crank, but it would not start. I ran the two vehicle self tests and it said it had no faults. I shut the car completely off and waited a minute or two, then turned the key and it started right up like nothing ever happened. The car can go for days without this happening and then it will do it two to three times in a single drive. I don't know where to start; the key, the starter relay switch, ignition module, PCM, crank sensor, the anti theft device, I have no idea. If you could point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it. - Dan, from Kansas.
The 1st step is to find out what circuit is losing power. It could be many things. The fuel could be cut, or the ignition signal, etc. An intermittent open circuit can be very tough to locate; professional assistance may be required to troubleshoot the problem.
1080. I have a 2001 LE PT with 44k miles and a Whipple supercharger. I have had the P0171 "lean mixture" fault code come up three times. I called PT Tuning, who sold me the unit and handled the installation. They said to reset the adaptive memory by disconnecting the negative battery cable and letting it sit for 15 minutes. Then take a very small gauge wire (single phone wire) and lightly brush the positive side of the battery terminal. He said this will reset everything and the PCM will relearn as a supercharged engine. Is this correct? The Whipple supercharger light does not indicate any problems, only the check engine light (MIL). My engine is stock, with the exception of the SC. Any help would be welcome. Thank you. - Ralph, from California.
A lean running engine under boost is very dangerous. Every Whippled PT I've worked on has been terribly rich. To maintain your coverage from Whipple, I suggest you follow his direction exactly.
1081. I have a 2003 TE PT with a CRD engine and 7k miles. It has a Bosh alternator with BOSH 150, NC82 14V 90-150A written on it. Because I need more power from the battery, I want to change it for another one with more amperage. Can this OE alternator model push 90A or 150A, or is it from 90A -150A? If I change the battery, with another (26 type) with more amperage, can this type of alternator recharge it? Thanks in advance. - Denis, from Italy.
The SM manual does not provide the specifications for the alternator in the export PT's. The OE alternator will charge any battery you decide to use. Even at 90 amps, that's 1305 watts. A headlight only draws 130 watts max. You should have plenty of available power for other accessories.
1082. I have a 2002 2.0L LE with 36k miles. I am trying to identify the terminal on the radio connector block to which I need to install a Nokia 610 Car Kit phone and connect a music mute cable. The radio is identified in the manual as sales code RBT/RBY and has 2 connector blocks on the rear, but not as in the 2001 model radio. They are located on the right hand side when viewed from the back, the smaller of the two located above the larger and both oriented vertically. The larger block has 22 terminals available - some without cables attached and the smaller has 10 cables. I have tried my dealer, and looked in the pit area, but the mute terminal is not identified. Any information you can provide would be very helpful. - Dean, from the United Kingdom.
The radio connection information that is offered through the SM can be found here:
The mute is only shown for the 2001 radio. As you may know, the radio connectors changed on later model year (2002-2005) PT's. The later year service manuals do not list that function for the newer style connectors.
1083. I have a 2001 LE PT with 21k miles. I was driving just at dusk and turned on the headlights, and shortly thereafter the dash lights, headlights, taillights and electric door locks failed. It also appears that the alarm system is inoperable. It literally left me in the dark. I had to drive with my emergency flashers flashing. - Bruce, from the USA.
Fuse #10 is a 40amp fuse in the power distribution center under the hood. Power is than sent to the interior fuse box, to fuses 1, 2, and 3. If something caused a 40amp fuse to blow, you must diagnose and repair the fault. Fuses don't just blow without a reason.
Follow up from owner - Thanks, the fuse was blown. I think it blew when I accidentally flashed the dimmer while turning the headlight switch on...drivers beware. After many attempts by the dealer to find the fault, they located a crimp/slice in the wiring in the left fender well, which caused the short. They initially felt I was responsible for the repair, but it was obvious that it was done during manufacturing. They (DC) yielded and picked up $290 charge for the 2 inches of wire.
1084. We have a 2001 BE PT with 80k miles. We replaced the starter and fixed the visible damage on this previously owned and wrecked (front end) PT. We tested the relays/fuses and they checked out fine. We attempted to jump the starter and it cranked, but that's when we found out it had no fuel. Does this vehicle have a safety cut off switch that shuts off the fuel and ignition? We ran the self-tests for codes and came up empty. - Mike, from Ohio.
There are many safety & control circuits. You will need the ignition / fuel wiring diagrams to test them all. The neutral safety switch, ASD relay, SKIM, etc. All have control of the ignition.
1085. I have a 2001 LE PT with 10k miles. I want to store my OE chrome wheels for the winter. I was told to lay the tires on top of each other, remove all the air from them, and not to store them on a concrete floor. Is this correct method to store tires? Thanks for your help. - Mark, from Illinois.
Mike and I do not profess to be tire/wheel experts, so we checked with Conner at TireRack, who provided this advice.
Whether you are storing your summer or winter wheels/tires the basic principals are the same.
1. You should always store the tire/wheel in some sort of sealed bag. I would recommend using a large heavy-duty lawn trash bag. Simply place the tire/wheel inside the bag (recommend hefty 40-50 gallon bags) and tie the bag closed to seal it. When the rubber in a tire breaks down very small cracks or "checking" appear on the sidewalls of the tires. The ozone in the air causes this. It actually deteriorates the rubber when the tire holds one shape for a long period of time. This problem can be slowed extensively if the tires are stored in a sealed bag of some sort.
2. During storage I would recommend stacking the tires on their side on a piece of plywood. This will eliminate flat spotting. Concrete tends to absorb and release moisture depending on the temperature and humidity. The temperature and moisture content of the floor can cause mold to form in the tiny grooves and crevices on the tire and wheel.
If you enjoy working in your garage you probably have some chemical residue on your garage floor from utility and garden equipment, cars, motorcycle, or cleaning products. If your garage floor were to ever experience a water leak, these chemicals could be picked up by the water, and spread to additional surfaces. When petroleum type oils come in contact with tire rubber and are allowed to "soak" in the tires the rubber can become contaminated and actually blister up. The end result...the tire is ruined.
Another common problem is that since tires are made of a soft material they tend to take on the shape of whatever they are laying on. Cement and concrete floor surfaces can get porous when water pools in one place and soaks in. Sometimes the topcoat of the floor can stick to the tire when lifted up.
3. I would recommend storing the tires in a temperature-controlled area. The tires can be stored at the standard air pressure that you drive them at. Tires will increase or decrease 1 PSI for every 10 degrees of ambient air temperature difference they are exposed to. As an example:
The tire is stored with an air pressure of 32 PSI and the temperature is 40 degrees (going into winter). When the ambient air temperature reaches 0 degrees the tire pressure will drop to 28 PSI. In the spring when you get the tires out of storage and the temperature is hitting 70 degrees your tire pressure will be at 35 PSI.
If you follow these simple storage guidelines your tires will always be in top condition and ready to use.
1086. We have a 2002 LE PT with 43k miles. Our airbag warning light came on and stayed on one day for no reason. When I ran the self-tests I didn't see any fault codes, only the instrument cluster software revisions (EE 05 etc.). We took the vehicle to an independent repair shop for a diagnostic service ($55) and were informed that the accelerometer (passenger side, seat airbag) was faulty and requires replacement. They want an additional $290 for this repair. I am a bit of an electronics buff - can I replace this myself without accidentally detonating the airbag? I really appreciate any advice, no matter how brief. Thanks. - Simon, from California.
In PT's with side airbag systems, the side impact module is called the Side Impact Airbag Control Module (SIACM). The right side SIACM controls the right seat airbag. The left side SIACM controls the left seat airbag. The SIACM modules cannot be interchanged and are located in the left and right B pillars, which are adjacent to the front seats. They are only found in PT's with the side airbag systems. Each SIACM contains two accelerometers, both accelerometers must agree in order to deploy the seat airbag. In the event of a side impact, the appropriate SIACM will send an electronic signal to its airbag, deploying the airbag. The SIACM communicates with the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC) via the PCI data bus circuit.
We have an OE Restraint System guide in the Pit area on the site, which explains the system in detail and includes replacement procedures for all of the modules. However, to complete the installation, you would need a DRB scan tool and Body Diagnostic Procedures manual. Although it is not a difficult installation, there is a matter of safety and liability involved, and we suggest that only qualified trained technicians handle airbag repair. Oddly, many mechanics have little or no formal training.
1087. I have a 2002 LE PT with 16k miles. I know that DC does not include a cabin air filter on the PT, however some models come with the complete housing in place, and some (like my '02) have just a plastic frame in place. I replace mine as instructed in your guide, but many people in our club ask me about it and say they have the complete frame in place. Can you tell me which years have just the simple frame, and which years have the plastic frame that is ready for the filter? - Rick, from Georgia.
Unfortunately, DC did not provide documentation when they change occurred, nor is it shown in the service manuals, however owners have reported that the complete housing is available on the 2003 model year and later domestic PT's. Of course, the irony is that Mopar sells the filter and housing as a complete assembly, not as separate components. When it's time to replace the filter, you must purchase the complete assembly.
1088. I have a 2001 LE PT with 59k miles. I have heard several noises, which appear to come from the front end on the driver's side. About a month ago, I noticed a small amount of fluid leakage. That's when I first started hearing these noises. Since then the noise has increased. It is not constant it; it comes and goes, but seems to be getting worse. It makes a sound similar to a spring tightening. Occasionally, I hear a popping sound, as I turn the steering wheel. The noise sounds like it is coming from right below the drive's side floorboard near the brakes. I had the brakes checked and they are fine. I was told that it sounds like a CV joint and that a repair wouldn't be too difficult. Any ideas or advice? - Jamie, from California.
As we've mentioned before, it is impossible to diagnose a noise via an online connection. It may be the CV joint, given the noise that is present when you turn the steering wheel, or it may be another component. There is also a newly released TSB related the halfshaft, which could be what you're describing and affects some 2001 -2004 PT's.
You mention that you noticed a fluid on the ground, but you don't mention identifying it. If it was power steering fluid, the noise you describe could be a power steering system component. A number of these components have failed on PT's. One symptom of this failure is noise when turning the steering wheel. Check your power steering fluid level, if it's low that may be one possible indicator of this issue. If the level is OK, don't rule the power steering system out, there are other symptoms.
With regard to the CV joint or halfshaft check the following:
Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard tripod joint and outboard C/V joint; this is a sign of inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp damage.
A light film of grease may appear on the right inner tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal and should not require replacement of the seal boot. The right inner tripod joint seal boot is made of silicone rubber; which will allow the weeping (sweating) of the joint lubricant to pass through it while in operation.
Noise and or Vibration in Turns
A clicking noise and or a vibration in turns could be caused by one of the following conditions.
Damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in inadequate lubrication of the joint.
Noise may also be caused by another component of the vehicle coming in contact with the half-shafts.
Replacing the halfshafts/CV joints can be done if you have previous experience in this area and have the necessary tools/equipment. OE guides for this process are available through the Pit area on the site, along with the halfshaft TSB (Driveline & Axle subsection) that I mentioned. See the Top Ten Issues List for additional information on the power steering system issues, diagnostics and repair suggestions.
1089. We have a 2001 BE PT with 71.5k miles. The car ran hot going up a hill. The engine shut off and won't come back on - that was two days ago. I ran the two self-tests and they came out clean. It has been running hot when I run the A/C and the weather is hot, so I stopped using the air. The dealer told me to put water in it until they could figure out what kind antifreeze it needed. Thanks. - Tobi from the USA.
Engine overheating can be caused by many things; the fan and controller, thermostat, head gasket, etc. You need to diagnose the cause. If the engine will not turn over with the starter, it's likely that it's going to require a lot of work.
1090. I have a 2004 Turbo (HO) PT with 2300 miles. When using the autostick shifter, which I do frequently, my car will not shift from 3rd to 4th under more than about 5% throttle. Even when I am approaching or at redline, when my acceleration is no longer present, I can't shift up to 4th without almost completely letting off the throttle. I can push up into D and the car will shift up. If I let off the gas to manually shift up and then get right back to WOT it will shift back down to 3rd on it's own. Is this normal? I've talked with my local dealer's transmission guy. He says it has to be something in the controller, which is in the PCM. As I have stage 1 on order, he says I should wait and do the install, which will probably resolve the issue. Thanks for any help you can offer. - David, from Indiana.
It's true that overdrive is only meant to be used at cruising speeds. With your foot to the floor, it should be in a lower gear. Overdrive is not an acceleration gear; it's a fuel efficient cruising gear. With any manual transmission, the cars top speed can be higher in the top acceleration gear than it is in overdrive. Try driving a similar PT and see if the same conditions are met. This will tell you if there's a fault.
1091. I have a 2001 PT and plan to change the coolant at 30k miles, the DIY guide on site will make it easy. I also want to change the hoses and the manual states to replace the spring clamps on the hoses with new spring clamps. I hate spring clamps, and don't have the tool to remove them. I've always replaced them with worm clamps. Have you heard of any problems replacing the spring clamps with worm clamps on the PT? Thanks. - Bob, from California.
I've not heard of anyone changing the clamps. Worm gear clamps are used in the aftermarket all the time with no apparent negative effects. The SM indicates that the cooling system utilizes both worm drive and spring type hose clamps. If a spring type clamp replacement is necessary, replace with the original, Mopar equipment spring type clamp. A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an OE clamp with a matching number or letter. The spring type hose clamp applies constant tension on a hose connection. The worm type hose clamp uses a specified torque value to maintain proper tension on a hose connection.
Follow up from owner - I ordered the OE replacement hoses and they included the spring clamps.
1092. I have a 2001 LE PT with110k miles. I was driving the PT and it started skipping, then shut off, and will not restart. The car had problems of this kind before and the dealer said the number 2 and 3 cylinder were not firing correctly. They replaced all of the wires, plugs, and the oxygen sensor, and also cleaned the fuel injectors. The PT has run well for about a month, up until this week. Now it's skipping again and won't start. There is no fire going to plugs. I've replaced the ignition coil, crank and camshaft sensor and still can't start (no fire to plugs) it. The self-test shows internal ROM. - David, from California.
Rather than throwing parts at it, you need professional diagnosis. A professional scanner will be able to access the freeze frame data when the fault occurred, real time datastream to see if the sensor signals are reaching the PCM, and PCM outputs to the engine controls. It could be as simple as a loose connector. You need a trained tech with a scanner and oscilloscope to locate the cause.
1093. I have a 2001 BE PT with 40k miles. It felt like I was driving with my brakes on, and I was. I had the two front brakes completely replaced, but I'm experiencing the same problem with the new brakes. My mechanic said the front caliper pistons are not releasing the calipers from the brake pads. They do not make steel pistons for calipers for this model. No one else seems to be having this problem. Thank you. - David, from Kansas.
There haven't been any reported problems with the OE calipers or pistons. With the calipers applied and stuck, crack open the bleeder screws. If pressurized brake fluid squirts out and the caliper's release, you have a master cylinder/ABS controller fault. The front disc brake caliper piston is manufactured from a phenolic (thermosetting resin) compound.
Follow up from owner - My mechanic finally got brake fluid to come out after they locked up. Replaced the master cylinder and so far its running fine. Thank you.
1094. I have a 2003 GT (HO) PT with 25k miles. What problems would I cause if I bought a nice battery box and optima battery and mounted it in the back trunk area? Thanks. - Don, from Florida.
Any battery installed inside the vehicle MUST be an absorbed glass mat or gel-cell sealed battery. Normal batteries are designed to vent the explosive gasses to atmosphere. You cannot allow that to vent to the vehicle interior. Plus, losing 25lbs of weight right over the drive wheels will change the traction and handling of the vehicle. The weight distribution will be altered for the worse.
1095. We have a 2002 TE 2.0L PT with 100k miles, and have been experiencing a momentary increase in engine revs, which are most noticeable when shifting up. The engine revs rise momentarily, then drop fairly slowly. I can compensate for thus by removing my foot from the accelerator pedal prior to depressing the clutch. The symptom makes slow speed maneuvers awkward, and gear changes sound like missed changes. When pulling away, the revs rise too fast, before you can properly 'feel' the clutch in. The dealer insisted this was normal, and let me drive his car (not a cruiser) to prove it. His car seemed fine to me. They reluctantly checked our car, and said there was a loose wire to the throttle linkage, which pacified my wife (it's her car). However, the problem persists. Good luck chaps, and thanks for any help! - Paul, from England.
Has this concern been happening since the car was new, or did it just start? An older engine that will not return quickly to idle is an indication of an exhaust restriction. While stopped in neutral, snap the throttle wide open and release very quickly. The engine should rev up and return to idle fast and smooth. If the rpm's come down slower than normal, you should have the exhaust back pressure tested.
1096. I have a 2002 LE PT with 32k miles. The alternator is not charging the battery. The Chilton manual says it is the PCM module and local dealer quoted me $577 for the part. The car was running great sitting at a red light and was hit from the rear. After it was towed in the alternator is not charging the battery. The alternator is sending 14.5 volts out, but only reading 12.2 volts at the battery, even when the engine is revved up. The dealer said a replacement rebuilt PCM would cost $577. Thanks. - Don, from Tennessee.
The regulator is built into the computer. You need a lot more hands-on diagnosis prior to throwing parts at it. There is a lot of wiring, connectors, voltages, etc.. to be tested to determine the fault. It could be anything from a loose wire connector to a dead cell in the battery. The PCM is VIN specific. You will need a DRB-III scanner to program the vehicle options into a replacement PCM In some instances replacement PCM's may be remanufactured, but were unable to verify that information. They should be available through any Mopar vendor. Other owners report that the Chilton and Haynes manuals leave a lot to be desired. You may want to check out the OE DC manuals.
1097. We have a 2001 BE PT with 95km, which we recently purchased used. A chip was installed at some point to increase idle speed for the A/C. The engine will not idle down below 1400rpm when the accelerator is released. The engine will finally start to lose rpm's when the speed gets below 40 kmph. Had it back to the dealer who simply said that this is "the nature of the beast" since putting in some chip to increase the rpm's for A/C use, and I would have to live with it. This doesn't seem right. I'm going to have excessive brake wear and low MPG. - Buck, from the USA.
It is normal for the auto transmission to keep the torque converter locked during deceleration, until such point that the brake pedal is depressed. This will keep the engine rpm higher than idle and ready to resume acceleration. I would suggest that you test drive a similar PT and make a comparison.
Follow up from owner - I took it to the local dealer a couple of times and they told me much the same as you. We test drove another PT on the lot and it was quite different from my car. They ran a diagnostic, but couldn't find couldn't find anything wrong, and said that they would contact engineering. The service manager called a few days later and arranged to have the PT examined by their "best man". I don't know what he found, but they reprogrammed something (probably the PCM) and it's running normally now. I really appreciate you taking the time to get back to me.
1098. We recently purchased a previously owned 2002 TE PT with low mileage, which were very happy with. Do you have any information on the interior colors? Thank you. - Vince, from Connecticut.
Other than the key-colored dash inserts, which are standard with the purchase of specific exterior colors, the interior colors consist of Dark Taupe (Code - WL8) and Light Pearl Beige (Code - MF1) on 2001-2005 model years. On later (2003-current) model years an additional color, Dark Slate Gray (Code - XDV), was introduced.
1099. I have a 2001 TE PT with 39k miles. When starting from a stop the car intermittently makes a clunking noise. I can also hear it occasionally when I let out the clutch on the 1-2 shift or the 2-3 shift. The noise is most prominent on the left side, but is sometimes heard from the right or from both sides. It is most reproducible when starting normally from a stop with the wheel turned to the left, as in pulling out of a parking space. My usual mechanic originally diagnosed and replaced two bad (rotted) control arm bushings; this improved the steering feel, but did not change the clunking sound. He looked at it again when I picked it up, was able to wiggle the left tie rod, and condemned the steering rack. The Chrysler dealer took $82 for an hour of diagnosis, came up with a loose left outer tie rod end and rightly recommended replacing both tie rod ends and doing an alignment ($438 at the dealer, $268 at my tire shop). My mechanic is steadfast that a tie rod would not cause the clunk and that the steering rack is shot. Your opinions would be appreciated. 1. Could a worn outer tie rod end produce a clunk like this? The PTDIY diagnostic mentions a clink, but this is lower frequency. 2. Is it most likely the rack? 3. Is further diagnosis needed? Thank you. - Todd, from Massachusetts.
It sounds like you have been slowly narrowing down the possibilities. As you know, sounds are impossible to diagnosis online, and given that the PT has been physically checked by at least two mechanics and the problem still has not been positively identified we would not hazard to make a guess. We simply do have the expertise in this area or the ability to examine the PT in order to offer an opinion. Unfortunately, no other owners have reported this issue to us. It does not sound like a tie rod or ball joint based upon reports that we have received from other owners. With the steering rack most owners generally report precursor symptoms that include a steering wheel that catches or sticks in certain positions or is difficult to turn, stiff, or hard to turn. Or you may feel the steering wheel surge, or experience a momentary increase in effort when turning. Our recommendation would be to take the PT to a pro shop that specializes in suspension work and have them thoroughly check it out. They can best advise which parts are failing and what needs to be replaced.
Follow up from owner - (1) I took the PT to the local tire shop and they said the outer tie rod ends are shot to the point of serious concern (should have been towed instead of driven). And it is not possible to tell if the inner tie rod ends or steering rack are shot because the outer tie rod ends are so bad. The inner tie rod ends are not replaceable separately; they are part of the steering rack. I find it interesting that the car passed the Massachusetts annual inspection in August. We haven't seen any of the steering symptoms that PT DIY describes, so maybe the rack is OK. We will replace the outer tie rod ends tomorrow and see how much better it gets. (2) They replaced the outer tie rod ends and performed a four-wheel alignment, which seems to have done the trick ($288). All noises and the slight shimmy are gone.
1100. We recently purchased a previously owned 2001 LE PT with 41k miles, which appeared to be in good condition. Today I changed the transmission fluid/filter and found numerous shiny, metal filings at the bottom of the drainage pan. Two pieces of non-ferrous metal, the largest of which measured 1/4" x 1/16" x 1/16". The remaining pieces were much smaller. As expected, the magnet was dirty. Everything works fine, should I worry? Thanks. - Raul, from Florida.
It's normal for the magnet to become covered in a small amount of metallic clutch material, especially with newer vehicles, however large metal pieces suggest serious issues with the transmission. Have it checked out as soon as possible. I hope you don't need it, but a DC factory extended warranty plan would come in very hand right now.
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