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The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ask Motor-Mike and Ed.


Part Forty Two Q&A 1026 - 1050

1026. I have a 2001 TE PT with 57k mile. I turned the ignition off to go into the store, and when I restarted the car the air bag light did not go off, Heat/AC blower, power windows and rear defogger did not work. I can not find a fuse associated with all the items that malfunctioned. - Robert, from Ohio.

Since the 30A fuse #1 also controls the starter relay (and the car starts), there must be an open circuit from splice #123 to the ignition switch output connections. I would guess it's a faulty ignition switch, but actual diagnosis must be made with a voltmeter. See the Top 10 Issues List and ignition switch guide in the Pit area for more information. Reference pages: 8W-11-11, 8W-10-8, and 8W-10-23 of the 2002 manual.


1027. We have a 2002 BE PT with 93k miles. I would like to know where the voltage regulator is located on the PT? Thank you for your help. - Gene, from Iowa.

The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is not a separate component. It is actually a voltage regulating circuit located within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The EVR is not serviced separately. If replacement is necessary, the PCM must be replaced.


1028. I have a 2003 LE PT with 19k miles and would like to know how the hand-held transmitter (FOB) communicates with the Sentry alarm system? Thanks. - Ira, from New Jersey.

The Sentry Key Immobilizer Module transmits and receives RF signals through a tuned antenna enclosed within a molded plastic ring formation that is integral to the SKIM housing. When the SKIM is properly installed on the steering column, the antenna ring fits snugly around the circumference of the ignition lock cylinder housing. If this ring is not mounted properly, communication problems may arise in the form of transponder-related faults.


1029. We have a 2001 LE PT with 55k miles. The A/C works fine as long as we travel on trips less than 45 minutes. Once our driving time is beyond 45 minutes the air volume coming out of the dash vents dramatically decreases. What little air comes out is still cold, but hardly any air movement comes out of the vents. The fan motor is working fine at all speeds, but it sounds muffled. It's like some internal damper closes on it's own and fails to respond to any switch settings. The A/C will work fine again once the car sits and the engine cools down. Is the damper controlled by vacuum on the PT? Could we be having a vacuum leak or could this be related to the heater/cooling controls in some way? We appreciate your help. - Paul, from North Carolina.

Your description sounds like the evaporator coils are icing over. The airflow is diminished due to the coils freezing up. The only vacuum operated door is the recirculation door. That would not impede airflow. If the airflow does not diminish with heat or vent, but only AC, then I would check for icing of the coils.

Follow up from owner - The change in airflow happens rather quickly once we notice it starting, after about 45 minutes, the airflow suddenly decreases to almost nothing. The decrease occurs over a period of about a minute once the transition starts. Once it occurs, even the sound of the air is different...kind of a muffled sound. If we select the heat it begins to blow hot...but the flow is still diminished. Selecting between A/C, heat, or vent still yields the same restricted airflow.

Follow up from PTDIY - Your follow up suggests that the blower motor is overheating. The cause of the overheating may be due to constantly restricted airflow or a faulty blower motor. Have the system diagnosed to pinpoint the problem.


1030. I have a 2003 GT PT. How much boost is safe to run on 03 and 04 turbo PT's? I understand boost controllers and how to hook them up and tune them, I'm just hoping there have been others that have already done this and can give me a head start on what to adjust the boost to? Does anyone have Dyno's with air/fuel readings at above stock boost? Thanks. - Rob, from the USA.

Since the owners and service manual specifically warn against added boost, your warranty is at risk and I cannot recommend against their warnings. Your best bet would be to visit a GT specific turbo forum. They can answer your questions based upon actual experience.


1031. I have a 2004 TE 2.0L PT with 2500km. Can you tell me where to find the tachometer wire for my aftermarket Becker navigation system? Thanks. - E, from the Netherlands.

The tachometer is driven by a signal from the PCM transmitted along with many other bits of info over the PCI communication bus. There is no direct wire to the tachometer.

The 2004 SM states that the PCM monitors gear ratio changes by monitoring the Input and Output Speed Sensors. The Input, or Turbine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to the PCM that represents input shaft rpm. The Output Speed Sensor provides the PCM with output shaft speed information.

The input speed sensor or the crank and camshaft sensor signals may be able to be adapted for a tachometer signal. You may have to select a 2-cylinder engine as the tachometer input choice to get it to work. I do not recommend experimentation with these sensors. A catastrophic fault may occur.


1032. I have a BE 2002 PT with 18k miles. I purchased some aftermarket lighted sill plates, which I want to wire through a door controlled power source. Is there a wire running in the track along the sill plate that would allow me to connect at that point? Or do I need to go under the dash? - Larry, from Texas.

Your SM will show the wiring and connector locations. Page 8W-44-3 shows a yellow wire to the dome lamps under the dash.


1033. I have a 2002 TE PT with automatic transmission and 30k miles. I have been experiencing a popping noise on the right front side when accelerating or decelerating. I have been back to the dealer many times, but they can't find it. When you take off or let up the right side front pops. They have checked the velocity joints, lug nuts, motor mounts (which they where going to replace and didn't). Last month I called Chrysler and reported the problem (got a service ticket #) but haven't hear from them. The popping noise is some times louder than at other times. Thank you. - Art, from Illinois.

We haven't received any other reports of this type, and as you know it is impossible to diagnose a noise via an online connection. It sounds like the dealer has been fairly thorough in checking the likely locations. You might ask if they utilize recorders in situations like this. There are remote microphones and recording units that some dealerships utilize to locate sounds. These remote 'ears' are getting more use as vehicle's get harder to diagnose.


1034. We recently purchased a pre-owned 2003 TE PT with automatic transmission and 37k miles. My wife drives downtown daily and tries to secure the PT as much as possible, while she's at work. With her previous vehicle she was able to lock the steering wheel when she parked, but we don't seem to be able to do that with the PT? Can you explain how to accomplish that task? Thank you. - Darrel and Beth, from Ohio.

The steering column used on PT's equipped with a manual transaxle have an anti-theft provision. With the key/lock cylinder turned to the LOCK position, and the key removed, the steering shaft (and steering wheel) cannot be turned more than 180 degrees before locking. Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle do not have this feature.


1035. I have a 2001 LE PT with 41.5k miles. I've had the car for 2 months and love it. When in drive the rear door lock constantly sounds like it is unlocking and locking. I was wondering how to engage the alarm system, it was working then it quit. I did not receive an owner's manual with this vehicle. Can you help? Thanks. - Keith, from Oregon.

The locking-unlocking description could be symptomatic of a failing Remote Keyless Entry (RKEM) module. A number of owners have reported issues with these. This could also be attributed to your inability to arm the vehicle. Owner's manuals are available for purchase through DC Tech Authority at 1-800-890-4038 for $10 each, plus shipping. To learn more about the RKE Module and OE replacement procedure please review the Top 10 Issues List in the Pit area.


1036. I purchased a 2001 LE PT through the local classified ads a week ago, which I'm very happy with. Prior to the sale I asked a friend who is a mechanic to check out the vehicle for me. He noticed a light white residue in the interior of the vehicle and suggested that the airbag restraint system may have been deployed. I asked the owner about it and he said that steering wheel airbag system deployed a few months earlier during a minor accident and the dealer completed all of the repairs. Can you tell me a little more about this white residue I'm seeing? - Bradley, from Wisconsin.

When an airbag deploys the vehicle interior may contain a very small amount of sodium hydroxide powder, which is a byproduct of airbag deployment. Sodium hydroxide powder can irritate the skin, eyes, nose and throat. The service manual suggests wearing safety glasses, rubber gloves, and long sleeved clothing when cleaning any of the powder residue from the vehicle. If you find that the cleanup is irritating your skin, run cool water over the affected area. Also, if you experience nasal or throat irritation, exit the vehicle for fresh air until the irritation ceases. If irritation continues, see a physician.


1037. I have a 2002 TE PT with 26k miles. This is the second time I've had this problem, which has resulted in a no-run situation with the PT. The first incident occurred around 20k miles with the engine sputtering and the MIL light. I called the dealer who said to run it like that until he could fit me in. A day later it died and the warranty invoice showed a EGR valve and sensor failure. Now, 5 months later with 26k miles on the car it suddenly died. It failed to do anything upon turning the ignition key. No sound, clicks or anything. I checked the obvious like the interior fuses and battery. I called the dealer and had them tow it in again. They diagnosed it as a blown ignition fuse. He wanted to keep it and see if he could identify what caused the fuse to blow, however I needed the car. It was covered under warranty, but how much do these fuses cost and where is it located? - Nick, from Pennsylvania.

Check fuse #3 (40amp/green) in the PDC under the hood. Shouldn't cost more than a $1.00 to replace, but you really need to figure out what's causing it to blow. If you continue to replace it and allow it to blow, you may end up creating more damage then you started out with. It may be the ignition switch itself, there have been a number of failures reported. See the Top Ten Issues list and ignition replacement guide in the Pit area for more information


1038. I have a 2003 GT Turbo PT with 8500k miles. I've heard a grinding sound, which seems to come from my front disks, since I purchased the car. It is not rust on the rotors .I hear the grinding sound most of the time, but it is more noticeable with the windows open. My dealer told me the turbo's have noisy brakes and it is normal. I have met other turbo owners and they have similar noise complaints. If this is true are there aftermarket pads that would cure this annoying problem? Thank you. - Mal, from Illinois.

Brake noise can be caused by a variety of factors. If the dealer indicated that the noise is normal, and other owners agree, it is most likely the OE pads. The brake pads are the same material as all the other PT's. They are slightly thinner to allow the same caliper to fit the thicker rotors. There have been forum posts about installing the thicker non-turbo ceramic pads on the GT. I cannot confirm that they will fit. Your best bet would be to visit some of the Turbo specific forums and see what other owners are using.


1039. I have a 2.0L 2003 LE PT with 9500k miles. Last week the turn signal bulb in the front left-hand side headlight cluster blew. I replaced it with another one, but whilst testing it (using the hazard warning lights) the bulb blew, shattering the glass of the bulb itself. It looks like the glass the bulb was made from was defective and as a result failed to withstand the heat. I have replaced the smashed bulb with another new one and this is fine - proving that there is not a problem with overloading, etc. The problem is that the smashed bulb left me with a lot of glass debris in the headlight unit. I removed the unit and shook out most of the debris, but there are some small stubborn pieces left inside. I was wondering if it is possible/advisable to remove the front cover of the headlight unit so that the remaining debris (and smoke marks on the glass created from the gas in the bulb escaping) can be removed? Thanks for your advice. - Simon, from the UK.

As you mentioned the headlamp unit is one piece and I'm afraid that we do not have any experience disassembling the headlamp assemblies. I would try compressed air or soapy water to remove the debris, prior to attempting any disassembly.


1040. I have a 2001 LE PT with 37.4 miles. The car lost full power on the freeway, but I was able keep going 1/4 mile to next exit and park it. I let it sit for 1 hour while in the doctors office (unrelated), then tried to start it and failed. I had it towed to local dealership. In 2002, the car required fuel system work under warranty at same dealership, and I thought the loss of power was the same problem. They told me this morning that the coolant was muck, which caused it to overheat and spark plug damage. My repeated attempts to start the car "caused the battery to drain out, due to lack of maintenance. However, back at work my local mechanics looked up the Chrysler service recommendations and maintenance is not indicated until 100,000 miles! What's the real story? - Lisa from California.

The Mopar extended life coolant is designed for 100K miles and 5 years, and the owners manual specifically states to flush and replace the coolant:

Under Schedule A - 100k or 5 years.

Under Schedule B - 100k miles.

Point this out to the dealer. If they still insist that you didn't follow the maintenance schedule, ask specifically which maintenance they are referring to. If they still insist that it is a coolant issue call DC directly and ask for their assistance in resolving the issue or get a second opinion from another dealer.


1041. I have a 2001 BE PT with 52k miles. I replaced the OE spark plugs and wires with Champion DP plugs and Crane 25 Ohm wires at 30K miles. I have had no difficulties with the car at all up until now. At 52k miles I had rough idle and the check engine light flickered on and went off while accelerating away from a toll. The MIL produced no codes. I replaced the PCV and there was no change in the idle. I replaced the EGR after reading a bit here and on other forums. The problem continued, so I checked the plugs and wires. They seemed fine. I cleaned, greased, (dielectric), rechecked the gap and reinstalled, and the problem persisted. A day or so after doing that the check engine light came on and stayed on. P0303 was the code - misfire on cylinder 3. I went to AutoZone where they let you hook up to an OBDII computer for free. It produced the same P0303 and no other codes. I then replaced all the plugs and wires', with OE plugs and OE wires, thinking that one of them was bad. The engine light is still on and the same driving and idling conditions persist. I believe I am reluctantly headed for the dealer. - Mark, from New Jersey.

The first thing I would look at is the fuel injectors'. At your mileage, a lot of problems can be cured with a professional injector cleaning. This is not some goo poured into the gas tank, but a professional cleaning using a machine designed for this service.


1042. I own a 2002 LE RHD (right-hand drive) PT. I have a problem with the multi-function control lever, where, whenever I turn on the right-turn signal the front fog light will switch on. The local mechanic has modified the wiring, which has resulted in me not being able to use the high beam lights, and the fog light is permanently disabled. I thought the control lever could faulty, but I am having problems sourcing the part; because there are only a limited number of PT's in Malaysia and the vehicles are imported by a grey importer. I hope you can help. Thank you. - SengKee, from Malaysia.

Your description of the problem certainly suggests a faulty multi-function switch. We have received a number of complaints from domestic LHD owners regarding the switch, which generally requires replacement. I can't say that we've heard from many export PT owners who have reported similar issues, but that would not be unusual on a predominately domestic PT web site. The multifunction switch is a bit different on the export models; it includes additional circuitry for the operation of the rear fog lamps. The domestic PT's only utilize front fog lamps.

You may be able to order the part through Wyckoff Chrysler online. I believe that they offer some international shipping options. See the DIY Club page for the store link and discount details.

Here are the P/N's for the 2002 Multifunction switches:

1 SWITCH, Multifunction

5019 711AA - without Fog Lamps
5019 712AA - with Fog Lamps
5019 713AA - with Rear Fog Lamps
5019 714AA - with Front and Rear Fog Lamps

Make sure to verify the P/N before ordering. If you receive the part and decide to DIY you'll find more information about this issue and the replacement procedure in the Pit area on the site.


1043. I have a 2002 2.0L LE PT with 44k miles. When switching on the airflow to hot/cold and A/C, air comes out of the vents on top of the dashboard onto the window screen, but not through the front dash vents. You can switch the dial to a number of different positions (window, feet, feet and head), but the air only flows out of the top dash vents. I've checked the dial and it moves ok. The low to high fan speed switch functions correctly, and I can hear the air, but it won't flow through the dash vents. - Carl, from England.

It seems that everything works, except the mode doors. They operate 2 cables from a single adjustment knob. There is an adjustment procedure to try first. The adjusting cable hold-down clip may be faulty. Refer to the mode door cable adjustment on page 24-18 through 24 of the 2002-service manual. If you plan to DIY and do not have access to a manual we can accommodate you with the necessary information through the Pit area on the site.


1044. I have a 2002 TE PT with 18k miles. The door open light fails to turn off with all the doors closed, and the lock control on the right side of the car doesn't while the car is running. The dome lights remain on for 8 minutes, and the chime sounds at every stop. - Bill, from California.

There's quite a bit of wiring to check. The BCM is sensing an open door. The door switches and wiring to the BCM complete the circuit from each door and the hatch. A DRB-III factory scan tool can access the BCM and tell you which door is reading open. This will eliminate 4 other door choices and pinpoint the rest of the diagnosis and repair.


1045. I have a 2001 LE PT with 53k miles. Today another motorist motioned to me that my two (lower) brake lights were not working, although the high center mounted (3BL) brake light is functioning. When I turn on the exterior vehicle lights all of the lights seem to work and the turn signals function correctly, but the two (lower) brake lights still do not work. I would appreciate any help you could provide. Thank you. - Jack, from Ohio.

Either the wiring to both lower brake lamps has failed, or the bulbs are blown. The bulbs are the most likely.

Follow up from owner - You were right, both OE brake lamps were burnt out. The guide in the Pit area was very helpful during the replacement procedure. Thank you.


1046. I just purchased a used 2001 LE with 97k miles. It runs perfect for about 15 minutes, then as I'm usually coming to a stop the engine dies and wont start. If I sit and wait about 10 minutes it starts and runs, but dies again after about 15 minutes. After it dies, I noticed it doesn't have spark. Could it possibly be a bad crank sensor coil? - Jim, from Illinois.

A faulty crank sensor or coil are monitored by the PCM and would set a fault code. Try running the two vehicle self-tests to rule these components. A more hands-on diagnosis may be required - your technician may need to install a 'flight recorder' to monitor the subsystems.

Follow up from owner - Thanks guys, it was the crank sensor.


1047. We have a 2001 BE PT with 56k miles, which we are very frustrated with. It seems like every time I turn around, there is something broken, squeaking, leaking, or just plain and simple not working right. I can't possibly tell you how much money I have put into my vehicle. Now I found out that I have a "sway eliminator link" problem, and the part alone will cost $216. The dealership told me this is a common problem, however a recall hasn't been made. Are other people having problems with this? Thanks for your time and attention. - Rebecca, from Pennsylvania.

We haven't received any reports of stabilizer link failures. Are you sure it really needs one? That isn't a normal wear item. You may want to think about getting a second opinion to confirm the initial diagnosis.

Amy wrote that she owns a 2001 PT, which needs a "sway eliminator link" replaced. Her local dealer indicated that this is a common problem with the 2001 and 2002 models based upon their local experience. The part its self runs approximately $60 to replace, not including labor.


1048. I have a 2002 LE PT with 30k miles. I have read the, and the use of synthetic oil is convincing, however I have trouble with the extended oil changes. They talk about using HD filters, which help keep the oil cleaner during extended use. They claim that the use of synthetic oil keeps the engine clean and provides better performance and mileage? What is your opinion? - Art, from Illinois.

Everyone seems to have an opinion on synthetic oil. Many automobile owners report using these products. If you conduct an online search for "synthetic oil" you will find numerous articles, which state the pros and cons of using various synthetic oil products, some of which are contradictory. My personal experience, using Mobil 1 with the PT is that it does nothing to alter mpg or increase hp performance, but the engine does seem to run smoother. Regardless of which oil products you use, we do not advocate extending the service interval between oil changes. Changing your oil at regular intervals is the most cost-effective maintenance you can perform to increase engine life. If you feel that you must extend the time between changes, consider using higher quality filters, which offer better filtration, or perhaps a double filter. You'll find recommendations for both type filters within the oil change guide in the Pit area. That said, each owner must conduct their own research and decide which products are best suited for use with their vehicle.


1049. I have a 2002 BE PT with 56k miles. My HVAC fan runs only in high speed either on heat or A/C. I looked for the low speed relay, but found none, and the fuses are all good. I wasn't sure how to remove the instrument panel center bezel to test the switch? Any information would be greatly appreciated. - Jeff, from Montana.

The low and high-speed relays are for the radiator fan only and are found in the Power Distribution Center under the hood. The A/C utilizes one relay, which is also located under the hood in the PDC. If both the fuse and relay are OK, it could be the blower motor resistor block or the blower motor switch in the heater-A/C control panel. Check for an open circuit between the switch and the blower motor resistor block. The open is probably between splice S200 through connector C105 to pin 9 of the resistor block. The heater-A/C control panel cannot be repaired. If a switch is faulty or damaged, the entire unit (panel) must be replaced. Review the service manual for specific component testing information and, if necessary, for the instrument panel center bezel removal procedure; it's also available through the Pit area on the site.


1050. I have a 2001 TE 2.0L PT with 43k kilometers. I heard an increasing noise, coming from the right rear brake (disk). The wheel was pretty hot compared to the other three wheels. While dismantling the brake I noticed wear on the outer pad to bare metal, while the inner pad was still about 80% good. I changed the rotor and the pads, but the brake is still binding and the wheel gets very hot. I have a feeling that the caliper is not opening completely, possibly due to a badly machined part (caliper). All the retaining clips were in good shape. I will try to file the caliper down for a proper seat in its carrier. If this should prove unsuccessful I will have to purchase a new caliper. The car has been serviced at a Chrysler dealer, adhering to the regular maintenance intervals. Is this a common problem with this model and why on earth should I replace the left-hand caliper as well, which is in perfect working order. This is described as a "need-to" in the Haynes workshop manual. Many thanks for your efforts. - Harald, from Switzerland.

We have received very few reports of caliper failures. The OE service manual makes no reference to replacing both calipers. It merely states that the failed caliper must be repaired or replaced.

Follow up from owner - I removed the caliper and slightly sanded down the protruding surface. Now the pads and caliper move freely on the rail and the brakes open up completely without touching the disk when they are not applied. It seems that the problem was due to a not so well machined caliper and, apart from the brake pads and disk, there was no need to replace anything else.


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